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Fort des Oliviers Tells the Story of Haiti’s Colonial Past

Fort des Oliviers
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Fort des Oliviers Tells the Story of Haiti’s Colonial Past

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On a rocky peninsula just a short walk from Saint Louis du Sud, Fort des Oliviers dates back to the start of the eighteenth century.

A glimpse of the past

As you walk past cannons propped on stones, your mind will wander back to the time of double-breasted military uniforms and rifles. Staircases ascend and descend to the upper and interior levels of the fort – or the parts of it that have been preserved despite the elements. Wandering up the stairs, under archways and around the ancient artillery allows you to glimpse the experience of construction workers – both French and Haitian, who – more than three hundred years ago – put each of these stones into place.

Exploring the ruins of Fort des Oliviers, visitors can get a sense for the colonial era in which it was built. Three centuries have suffused the weathered walls of the fort with character. The stone has been softened and polished by the salt air and waves. Fort des Oliviers is as much a product of the coastal landscape as it is of those who built it.

If you are looking to deepen your understanding of Haiti’s colonial history, a visit to Fort des Oliviers is absolutely in order!

Fort des Oliviers
Photo: Franck Fontain

Steeped in history

Built in 1702, Fort des Oliviers was built by French occupiers to defend the Haitian territory against their colonial competitors – namely the British Empire. Unfortunately for the French, the British did indeed take over Fort des Oliviers about fifty years later, and established it as a pit-stop port for British ships to rest and refuel their crews.

Unlike Fort Ogé, Fort Jacques, or the iconic Citadelle Henri, which were built during Haiti’s revolutionary struggle for independence, Fort des Oliviers reflects an earlier chapter — one shaped by European rivalry, colonization, and imperial defense strategies along the southern coast.

The southern coastline of Haiti was hotly contested in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries as a foothold from which to defend the country’s riches — a legacy that still shapes the southern region, home to coastal forts and a growing list of excursions and cultural activities in Les Cayes. Although modern Haiti is known for its pristine beaches, colonial-era Haiti made a name for itself in European cities through the high-quality goods brought back by traders returning from its shores. Fort des Oliviers was built just a few years after the French and Spanish divided up the island of Hispaniola into two separate countries – the Dominican Republic on the East and Haiti on the West.

The living heritage of relics like Fort des Oliviers make it impossible to separate the insistent natural beauty of the landscape from the history that has shaped modern Haiti as a living, breathing organism. This sense of identity and purpose is what drives the carnival attitude and lust for life that sets Haiti apart as one of the best places to visit in the Caribbean.

If you’re thirsty for more adventure, you’ll find another old fortress on an islet in the bay visible from Fort des Oliviers. This is Fort Saint-Louis, constructed at the same time as Fort des Oliviers. The islet is also home to an abandoned shipwreck famous among locals.

Fort Saint-Louis is accessible via a short boat ride from the coast.

Know Before You Go

Fort des Oliviers is completely free to visit — there are no fences, ticket booths, or entry fees. Though there’s no formal infrastructure, you won’t be on your own: local guides are usually available and will often approach you on-site. A tip of around 500 gourdes is a fair way to thank them for sharing the fort’s history and secrets.

Not sure how much that is in dollars, or what else to budget for? Read our guide to money and costs in Haiti.

The fort itself is weathered and crumbling, with restoration efforts halted since 2019. It’s generally safe to explore, but caution is advised near the edges, where the stonework has weakened over time.

There are no restrooms or vendors in the immediate area, but you may come across a young local selling fresh coconuts from the surrounding palm trees — 250 gourdes is a fair price. Don’t count on it, though, so bring your own water, sunscreen, and proper walking shoes. There’s good cell signal in the area, and the site is quiet enough to enjoy a picnic or a moment of peace under the sun.

Coconuts vendor at Fort des Oliviers
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Getting there

Fort des Oliviers is a short walk from the township of Saint-Louis-du-Sud. While you’re in town, make a stop at the highway-side market to sample some of the area’s famous street food. If you only try one thing, look for the lady selling Lam Veritab Fri (fried breadfruit). Though it resembles fried plantain, the texture is very different — soft, starchy, and delicious. A cousin of jackfruit, breadfruit is best served piled high with a generous helping of spicy pikliz.

From the western edge of town, you can walk along the shoreline and over the palm-shaded peninsula that leads to the fort. The upper level of the structure offers flat, open spaces — perfect for sitting down to enjoy a picnic or simply disconnecting from the rush of city life. Just a stone’s throw away, you’ll find a quiet beach where you can dip your toes in the Bay of Saint-Louis.

For travelers arriving from farther away, Les Cayes is a 40-minute drive, while Jacmel is about four hours by road. As you approach the coast, keep an eye out for the islet in the bay — home to Fort Saint-Louis and a legendary shipwreck. Fort des Oliviers sits just opposite, nestled into the curve of the bay, easily visible from the shoreline.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018.
Updated March 2025.


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Eight of the Best Books Written by Haitian Women Authors

A Haitian woman at Pic Macaya
Photo: Tyler Welsh

Eight of the Best Books Written by Haitian Women Authors

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Women’s voices form an essential part of contemporary literature, with an increasing number imposing themselves on the international literary scene. Poets, novelists, essayists, and theorists, these women writers never fail to deliver when it comes to creative genius. Haitian women writers have refused to remain on the sidelines in a male-dominated environment.

We’ve rounded up eight of the most brilliant books by Haitian women authors to make room for on your bookshelf.

Love, Anger, Madness by Marie Vieux-Chauvet

Here is a novel that critics won’t stop praising anytime soon. Leading to its author’s exile from Haiti, Marie Vieux-Chauvet’s Love, Anger, Madness (Amour, colère, folie) was immediately banned by the political regime in place when it was published in 1968. A trilogy in one volume, the novel follows three sisters; Claire, Félicia, and Annette, all of whom live under the dictator Duvalier’s authoritarian regime. Each of them corresponds to one of the words in the title, and each will see their family fall apart in this tragedy.

This novel is considered one of the most beautiful in modern Haitian literature. For Haitian-Canadian author Dany Laferrière, Marie Vieux-Chauvet possesses “the clear and pure voice of a lucid and unshakeable novelist.” If you want to begin stocking your library with literature by Haitian women writers, you’ll do well to start with this remarkably well-written, must-read novel.

The Colour of Dawn by Yanick Lahens

A common theme of Haitian literature is the imprint left by the many political crises and repressive regimes the country has faced. Fortunately, they haven’t managed to stifle the voices of our talented Haitian women writers. Yannick Lahens is one of the most brilliant examples of this creative genius and an expression of the certain attachment an engaged writer feels to their homeland.

Published in 2008 (by Sabine Wespieser), The Colour of Dawn (La couleur de l’aube) tells the story of a Haitian family facing a political crisis, misery, and violence. Fignolé, the youngest of the siblings, doesn’t come home one night while bullets are raining down on Port-au-Prince. His mother and two sisters, each with their own unique temperament, set out together to find him.

Savage Seasons by Kettly Mars

No better work can follow the latter novels mentioned than this remarkable book by Kettly Mars. Attesting to the dark moments of oppression and suffering experienced by Haitian families during the Duvalier dictatorship, Savage Seasons (Saisons sauvages) tells the story of Nirvah. To save her husband, who is imprisoned at the infamous Fort Dimanche, Nirvah must offer up her body to the then Secretary of State.

Savage Seasons testifies poignantly to an era deeply rooted in Haitian memory. It’ll surely strike you with its gritty realism.

Dew Breaker by Edwidge Danticat

In this curious tale, Edwidge Danticat surprises us with the confession delivered by the main character, who, from one day to the next, goes from executioner and torturer to prey. He gives us an incredible account of the lives he has destroyed and seen ruined.

The protagonist saves himself from the populist purge thanks to the love of a woman and her daughter. However, he’s constantly confronted by ghosts of his past that stick to him and prove challenging to get rid of, despite being in exile.

Guillaume and Natalie by Yanick Lahens

In reading this surprising love story by Yanick Lahens, it’s easy to get caught up in the eroticism that emanates from the unusual couple at the heart of the novel. The author admits that she’s always wanted to write a love story. Still, despite the muted sensuality that emerges at the start, our two lovebirds are quickly brought back to the reality of their city and country. This narrative helps create a compelling and authentic-feeling love story.

Taking place the day before the 2010 earthquake, Guillaume and Natalie offer a taste of local Haitian color. Without resorting to fatalism, Lahens tells us the love story of a fifty-year-old sociologist and his encounter with Natalie, a thirty-year-old whose love for Haiti brings her back home after years of absence – and despite the wounds, she carries from her time there.

The Farming of Bones by Edwidge Danticat

The brilliant pen of one of Haiti’s best women writers, Edwidge Danticat, often transports us back in time and, through memory, allows us to experience past moments. Her second novel, The Farming of Bones, takes us back with vigor to one of the darkest periods in the history of Haiti and the Dominican Republic: the parsley massacre (Masak nan Pèsil)).

This novel is not only in the service of memory, however. It tells the remarkable love story of an orphan named Amabelle and a Haitian sugar cane cutter named Sebastien.

Amabelle is taken in and raised by a Dominican family as a young girl and becomes their servant. Meanwhile, the situation of Haitians changes drastically following the rise of the dictator Trujillo in the Dominican Republic. Amabelle manages to escape the bloody Persil massacre, but at what cost? This book marks a powerful tribute to the voices of those silenced, and reveals Danticat to be one of our most poetic writers alive.

Moonbath by Yanick Lahens

Moonbath (Bain de lune) is one of Yanick Lahens’ best-known books. Centered on  Haitian peasantry in the town of Anse Bleue, Lahens’ novel tells the story of a young girl who is found washed up on the shore. In reading Moonbath, you’ll be immediately plunged into a whirlwind of colors and scents, a true kaleidoscope of scenes infused with the poetry of popular Haitian beliefs.

Love, lust, Haitian peasantry, Vodou, and struggles for power: are all found in this cleverly composed novel, which won Lahens the prestigious Femina Prize (Prix Femina) in 2014.

Breath Eyes Memory by Edwidge Danticat

You’re likely to enjoy this sensitive tale spun by Edwidge Danticat. It’s the story of love and conflict that unites Sophie and her mother, who had not been in her life for her first twelve years. When Sophie leaves to join her mother in the United States, she must confront her contradictory feelings, including the fact that she has always considered her aunt to be her actual mother.

Danticat builds this moving story around traditional maternal figures and the obsession with preserving virginity and “female purity.” In it, we have a variety of compelling characters: Grandmother Ife, whose blessing must be sought; Martine, who finds herself with a child whose face reminds her of ghosts from the past, but whom she nonetheless tries to protect; Atie, the aunt, who injects all of her feelings of motherhood (for better or worse) into Sophie, who lies at the heart of this magnificent novel.

Just like our enchanting landscapes, historic forts, white sandy beaches, and colorful museums, the literature of our most brilliant Haitian woman authors is worth discovering. So, don’t hesitate to add this unique collection of titles to your reading list today!


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published November 2022.


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15 Fun Facts About Haiti

Sail boat in Labadee
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Fun Facts About Haiti

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You’ve probably already heard of Haiti, whether in the news, in history class, or elsewhere. But what exactly do you know about this magnificent country?

We’ve gathered some of the most surprising and interesting facts about our country and the amazing people living here. From cultural celebrations and old flags to weird food traditions and traveler-friendly facts. So, keep reading and get to know Haiti a bit better with these 15 fun facts!

Petite Cayemite island near Pestel
Photo: Anton Lau

1. Haiti is (part of) an island

If you plan to visit the Republic of Haiti, keep in mind that it’s, in fact, the western part of an island that it shares with another republic, the Dominican Republic. The name of this island is Hispaniola. The Dominican Republic lies to the east, and its capital is Santo Domingo. Haiti lies to the west, and its capital is Port-au-Prince. The two nations share, in addition to the island, an eventful history, with each possessing a unique cultural identity despite a few similarities they have in common.

Mountain forest in Seguin, La Visite National Park
Photo: Alamy

2. Haiti is mountainous

No matter where you may find yourself in Haiti, you’ll either be on a mountain range or have one in view. The country is made up of a series of breathtaking mountain landscapes. Actually, the very name Haiti means “mountainous land” in the Taíno language spoken by the island’s indigenous inhabitants.

So if you like hiking in the mountains, Haiti is the perfect tourist destination for you. Two main mountain ranges dominate the country’s topography, covering it from north to south. So, grab your hiking shoes and your camera, and come enjoy our mountain landscapes and the fresh air of the countryside!

sun rising over beach with palm trees and lifeguard chair
Sunrise over Ti Mouillage beach, Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

3. It’s summer all year round

In Haiti, there’s sunshine and even more sunshine! In our country, the weather is nice all year round. The tropical climate typically means just one hot season and another season that’s a little milder. So, no matter the time of year, Haiti’s white sandy beaches are waiting to welcome you. Don’t forget to bring your bathing suit to take a dip in the ocean, because the summer is truly never over here – and that’s just a fact!

Labadee Beach
Photo: Shutterstock

4. We have breathtaking coastlines

The Caribbean is well-known for its lovely beaches, and our beaches are among the most beautiful in the region. You can visit Île des Amoureux (Lovers Island) near Ile à VacheLabadee in Cap-Haïtien, the Arcadins coast, the Anse Blanche beach close to Pestel, or Boukanye in Petit-Goâve. No matter where you go in Haiti, there’s a lovely white sand beach to discover!

Check out Haiti’s Best Beaches to explore more coastal beauty or for something more quiet discover Haiti’s Lesser-Known Beaches here.

Grotte Marie Jeanne
Photo: CavesOfHaiti.org

5. Haiti has the deepest cave in the Caribbean

Are you a fan of caving and exploring deep underground grottos? If so, dive into one of the Caribbean’s most spectacular cave adventures. With a massive cave system of more than four kilometers (two-and-a-half miles), the Grotte Marie Jeanne is the deepest cave in the Caribbean! Located in the south of Haiti by the city of Port-à-Piment, this impressive cave and its five levels of natural galleries and stalactites will, without a doubt, leave you speechless.

A bowl of soup joumou on a serving tray
Soup Joumou
Photo: Anton Lau

6. World-renowned food

When you discover Haitian cuisine, we are sure you’ll want to tell the whole world! In fact, we have a dish that UNESCO recognizes as part of the “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.” The dish that earned this high honor is a soup like no other, Soup Joumou. This soup is a real treat for the tastebuds, prepared with giraumont (turban squash), other vegetables, tubers, and meat. While traditionally eaten on New Year’s Day among families, as Americans do with Thanksgiving turkey, feel free to delight in this famous soup any time of the year! It’ll be our pleasure.

Read more about  Soup Joumou – The taste of freedom!

Haitian hot peppers
Photo: Anton Lau

7. Haitians enjoy spicy food

While we’re on the topic of Haitian cuisine, it might be a good time to let you know that Haitians eat particularly spicy food, as is the case for many of our Caribbean neighbors. Our cuisine is spiced with goat pepper, vinegar, and all the spices grown locally on the island. Before tasting a Haitian dish, you may want to prepare yourself, as the exceptionally spicy taste of our cuisine might take you by surprise!

Explore the flavors of Haitian cuisine through this culinary map!

Haitian spaghetti breakfast
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

8. Haitians eat spaghetti for breakfast

Let’s continue with the theme of Haitian cuisine. Don’t be too thrown off by our eating habits, which may differ from yours. For example, Haitians truly subscribe to the old adage that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, often eating rather heavy food as soon as they wake up. So, don’t be surprised if a Haitian offers you a big plate of spaghetti for breakfast!

Discover the Haitian street food you have to try!

Street vendors surrounded by baskets of colorful fresh produce at a market in Fermathe, Haiti
Street vendors, Fermathe
Photo: Franck Fontain

9. Degi

We have a word for what you get for free when you shop at our local markets. So, don’t forget to claim your degi the next time you visit a Haitian market. The vendor will willingly add this to your groceries if you have made a nice purchase or to encourage you to return!

Two schoolgirls laughing in Corail, Haiti
Schoolgirls in Corail
Photo: Franck Fontain

10. Greetings

You may be surprised by how many different greetings you hear when in Haiti. Thanks to the richness of Haitian Creole, you will hear much more than simply bonjou. Keep an ear out for greetings like sak pase (how are you?) or onè respè (cheers!).

haitian man dressed in purple shirt with human bones celebrating fet gede
Fèt Gede in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

11. Haitians don’t celebrate Halloween

If you’re a big lover of Halloween costumes and children trick or treating, you can forget about it in Haiti. Many Haitians have not even heard of this holiday, let alone celebrate it.

Instead, Haitians celebrate Fèt Gede, a cultural tradition much like All Saints Day and the Day of the Dead practiced in Mexico and other Latin American countries. Ceremonies are held throughout the month of November to appease the dearly departed, cemeteries are cleaned, and graves are painted to welcome the loa (spirits) of those who return to the earthly realm during this period.

Read more about this unique cultural tradition and see photos from a Fèt Gede celebration in Gonaïves!

Group of fisherman in Dame Marie, Haiti
Fishermen in Dame Marie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

12. Haitian Creole is the most spoken creole language in the world

When we talk about a “creole” language, we’re referring to a language that developed out of the meeting of Latin, African, and Amerindian languages during colonization and its aftermath. These languages are now spoken in many communities all over the world.

Haitian Creole, however, has the largest number of speakers in the world, and it’s also the most widely used language in Haiti. There’s even a Haitian proverb that testifies to the simplicity of the language and the fact that Haitian Creole is understood as easily as it is spoken: kreyol pale, kreyol konprann.

A jar of Haitian manba (spicy peanut butter)
Photo: Anton Lau

13. In our country, peanut butter is a little bit… extra

We’re guessing you’ve probably already tasted peanut butter. Here in Haiti, this creamy treat is known as manba, and it’s often used as a spread on bread or cassave, which is a flatbread made from cassava root. But what might surprise you — although maybe less so after reading this article — is that our peanut butter is particularly spicy since it’s mixed with hot peppers, ginger, and other local spices. This gives it a potent flavor that is unique to Haiti!

14. The famous novelist Alexandre Dumas is of Haitian origin

Haiti is known for its many poets and novelists who have won international awards, including authors such as Jacques Roumain, Frankétienne, Jean-Stephen Alexis, Marie Chauvet, Dany Laferrière, Edwidge Danticat, and Yanick Lahens. But among the most famous novelists in the world are Alexandre Dumas Jr. and Sr., who are of Haitian origin. The author of the classic novel The Three Musketeers (Dumas Sr.) is, in fact, the son of a mulatto general born in Jérémie when Haiti was still a colony of France.

15. How’s this for a fun fact? Venezuela’s flag was created in Haiti

You might know the flag of Venezuela with its stripes of yellow, blue, and red. But did you know the flag was first flown not in Venezuela but in the Haitian coastal city of Jacmel?  More precisely, on March 12th, 1806. The flag was designed in Jacmel by General Francisco de Miranda, a Venezuelan who began the struggle for the liberation of Venezuela, Ecuador, and Colombia. This struggle was taken up by Simon Bolivar with the help of then-Haitian president Alexandre Pétion.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published October 2022.


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel