Clouds gathering over the peak of Pic La Selle, Haiti — Clouds gathering over Pic La Selle
Photo: Anton Lau

Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

“Dèyè mòn, gen mòn”

This Kreyòl proverb means “Behind mountains, there are more mountains.” Hispaniola is one of the most mountainous islands in the Caribbean, and Pic La Selle is Haiti’s highest peak.

Part of the La Selle mountain range – which also extends into the Dominican Republic – Pic La Selle is over 8,700 feet, making it the highest mountain peak in Haiti, and the third highest in the Caribbean. If you’re the adventurous type, the La Selle range should be on your radar. A single-day climb affords panoramic views over the island of Hispaniola and out across the Caribbean.

Located in the south-east of the West department of Haiti, La Selle is accessible via the neighborhood of Croix-des-Bouquets, but also via the small town of Marigot, less than an hour’s drive from Jacmel. From there, the road gets rough, so it’s strongly recommended that you head to Pic La Selle with a 4-by-4.

The roads in Haiti, especially the mountainous ones, can be arduous, and if it is your first time going to Pic La Selle, it’s recommended that you hire a driver or at least a guide who knows the twists and turns in the road. Luckily, you’ll find guides who specialise in guiding hikes from city to summit.

Is the journey more important to you than the destination? You might prefer to hike or drive through the La Selle mountains via Furcy. This scenic route is lusher and the peaks and valleys more dramatic, and will appeal to nature-lovers who don’t necessarily want to scale Pic La Selle itself. Again, your best bet is to have someone on your team who has been before, or to make friends with a local. You can even arrange a guided tour on horseback.

Hiking through the dry coniferous forest, you’ll come to appreciate the saying “Dèyè mòn, gen mòn.” The mountains fold and unfold in front of you, seemingly to no end. Depending on the weather, they may be lanced with tufts of clouds, weaving between them.

Getting there: Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

A round trip takes between 8 and 12 hours. If you’ve arranged your guides the night before, you can leave Gros Cheval at 5am, driving for another hour into the forest before parking the car and starting the hike. The path will be uneven in places but no rock climbing is required. Taking a guide is still very much recommended because the path is often unclear or invisible.

The ascent takes around 3-6 hours depending on your fitness, and takes you over a ridge and four smaller peaks before you reach Pic la Selle proper. At over 8000 feet, those who are up for the adventure will be rewarded with spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola, looking over the borderlands between Haiti and the Bahoruco mountain range in the Dominican Republic. This area is part of the expansive Transboundary La Selle-Jaragua-Bahoruco-Enriquillo Biosphere Reserve, a protected region showcasing the rich biodiversity shared between the two nations.

The return trip to Gros Cheval is a little quicker, and if you arranged it in advance you’ll find an evening meal waiting for you.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018

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People eating lunch at L’Observatoire restaurant, Boutillier, with Port-au-Prince and the Caribbean sea in the background — L’Observatoire at Boutillier
Photo: Anton Lau

Soak up Spectacular Views from the Heights of Boutillier

Spectacular Views

Situated less than an hour from downtown Port-au-Prince, on the uppermost reaches of the ranges beyond Petion-Ville, amid cool mountain glades and forests of palms and towering native conifers, Boutillier is one of Port-au-Prince’s premier tourist attractions with spectacular views over the city, day or night.

The heights of Boutillier are home to roadside booths where artists sell their art as souvenirs, similar to the street-side craft markets in Place St. Pierre, Champs de Mars or Grand Rue, but the place that most travellers go to enjoy the view is the restaurant L’Observatoire.

L’Observatoire

The terrace of L’Observatoire boasts a phenomenal panoramic view of Petion-Ville and Port-au-Prince – taking in rolling green hills, the entire capital city, the turquoise expanse of bay Port-au-Prince, and the mountain ranges on the opposite shore.

Run by two sisters, L’Observatoire offers decent Haitian fare with some standouts: the best things on the menu are the freshly-pressed juices, traditional coffee, lobster burgers, and Pain Patate – a traditional Haitian dessert made from sweet potatoes and flavoured with rum-drenched raisins. Speaking of rum, the bar does excellent cocktails, and you probably won’t need more than one! L’Observatoire is also one of the few places in Port-au-Prince you can comfortably order vegetarian meals right off the menu.

Expect to pay New York prices here – you’re paying for the view and it’s the best in the city. Remember, though, that you’re on island time – you’ll have plenty of time to enjoy the view while you wait for you food, so grab a table – and a cocktail – and settle in to wait.

Sunset over Boutilliers, Haiti — View from Boutilliers
Photo: Franck Fontain

Romantic Getaway

As one of the most romantic spots in the city, you might expect L’Observatoire to have an extensive wine list – don’t. There’s a house white and a house rose, and last time I checked no red at all – but you can get red wine anywhere – how many places can you order a cocktail made with locally-distilled rum and sip it while leaning against a railing and looking over what feels like half the Caribbean?

The night-time view up here is even better than the sunset: the dark mountains plunge down onto the bay, and city lights cascade down their sides, pulling you towards the heart of the city. Just remember to bring a sweater or a blanket! It’s super romantic to have to lend or borrow a jacket to/from your date but keep the cool mountain air in mind so you don’t have to call off your night just as the view really gets magical.

Night view over the city of Port-au-Prince from from Boutilliers, Haiti — Nighttime view from Boutilliers, Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

When to go

New Years
A spectacular choice for new years’ celebrations. The young and old, tourists, expats and locals, all come here to celebrate new beginnings at the top of the world. An incredible place to count down to midnight, surrounded by friends when the city lights up in fireworks.

When you have a date
Nothing says romantic evening like the view Boutilier.

Getting there

If you are driving up from Pétion-Ville, go up Kenscoff road until you reach the fork of Laboule 12. From there, the drive to Boutilier is one of the most scenic urban stretches Haiti has to offer. Trees flank the road, and most of the homes are gated estates, with a few neighborhood boutiques here and there.

After a while, the road is unpaved and the homes give way to green rolling hills, from which you have a spectacular vantage point on the hills of Laboule and Pelerin. It turns back to asphalt after a few minutes, and again, winds between homes, small boutiques, and stretches of lush mixes of forest and farmland.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018

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L’Observatoire’s Facebook page

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“Dèyè mòn, gen mòn”

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