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Lansèt Kòd – the Haitian Tradition You’ve Probably Never Heard Of

The final lansèt kòd ritual
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Lansèt Kòd – the Haitian Tradition You’ve Probably Never Heard Of

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Embark on a journey of cultural discovery with the Haitian Carnival – where music, dance, and artistic expression come to life. Amidst the lively parades and colorful costumes, one tradition stands out as truly original and captivating – the Lansèt Kòd.

This century-old spectacle, where fearless participants cover themselves in black paint and run around in the streets, is a sight you won’t soon forget. But be warned, the Lansèt Kòd may seem strange or even intimidating to the unassuming observer, although for those who dare to experience it, it’s a true exhibition of Haitian culture.

To delve deeper into the Haitian tradition of the Lansèt Kòd, we traveled to Jacmel, the hub of cultural heritage in Haiti’s southeast department, to witness the preparation of the disguise, the pulsating energy, and the spectacle of the procession that culminates at

A boy getting face painted for Lansèt Kòd
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Embracing Eccentricity: A Behind-the-Scenes Look

On a Sunday morning during carnival season in Jacmel, the sleepy coastal town is gradually stirring as the sun rises. The air is salty from the nearby ocean and the sky is a brilliant blue. In a neighborhood lakou, a group of young men gathers, ready to disguise themselves for their weekly outing. They move to the beat of méringue music blaring from a cell phone, as they arrange their costumes, made from cut-out pants and ragged shorts.

Lansèt kòd carnival costume in the making
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Papier-mâché horns, painted fresh, dry in the sun as motorcycles drive by, adding to the noise of the street. To complete their look, some of the participants hold long whips, ready to snap as they parade through the town. Eccentricity is encouraged and embraced in these groups, with some sporting miniskirts and wigs in varying shades of brown, blonde and multicolored.

Charcoal being mixed with sugar cane syrup
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

In a corner of the courtyard, the leader prepares the central element of their disguise – a mixture of charcoal powder and cane syrup. The result is a thick, shiny black substance. The air is filled with a sweet, sugary aroma as the young men cover themselves head-to-toe with the mixture, only leaving ragged shirts, wigs, horns, and whips as the only other visible clothing.

Rubbing on the black paint
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Friends help each other apply the black paint, leaving their skin sticky and oily. Finally, with their disguises complete, the Lansèt Kòd are ready to take the streets of Jacmel by storm.

A lansèt kòd father and his son
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Origin of Lansèt Kòd: A Look into Its History

The Haitian tradition of Lansèt Kòd, (rope throwers in English or lanceurs de cordes in French), is rooted in the history of the French colony of Saint Domingue (present-day Haiti). During the colonial period, European-style carnivals were held in Saint Domingue, featuring lavish costumes and festivities.

Enslaved people, who were banned from participating in these carnivals, would stage their own mini-carnivals in their backyards, dress in tattered clothing and carry whips, with their skin smudged in a mix of grease and ashes they imitated and mocked their masters’ behavior.

This tradition was originally created as a form of ridicule of the slave masters, who would attend carnivals dressed in their finery. However, after Haiti gained independence, the newly freed people adopted the European Carnival tradition and infused it with their own music and culture.

Today, the Lansèt Kòd tradition is a celebration of Haitian culture and independence. In the collective imagination of Haitians, the Lansèt Kòd have also evolved into a symbol of good behavior for children, a kind of bogeyman that is used to encourage kids to be well-behaved.

The lansèt kòd in the streets of Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Mark of the Black Hand

As the Lansèt Kòd group leave the lakou and venture out into the streets, they bring with them a sense of dezod (meaning chaos and disorder in Haitian Creole) Their black-painted bodies are a stark contrast against the brightly colored houses of Jacmel. With synchronized stomping and singing, they draw the attention of everyone around them. In the center of the group, a member carries a flagpole waving their banner proudly.

And suddenly, they all break into a sprint.

The lansèt kòd group running through Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

In a seemingly choreographed manner they split into smaller groups, running through the narrow city streets while playfully trying to touch others with their black-painted hands. The hunting party has begun.

As the Lansèt Kòd start chasing after unsuspecting bystanders they leave their mark in the form of a black handprint. This may come across as strange or even frightening, but it’s all in good fun and part of the tradition. In fact, the majority of people who receive the “blessing” of the black paint are friends of the Lansèt Kòd entourage.

The lansèt kòd hunt
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

However, there’s one thing you should keep in mind: the Lansèt Kòd have a particular fondness for white clothing. If you’re wearing your finest dress or favorite white shirt, be prepared to end up with a black handprint on your back.

The black mark
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The black marks left by the Lansèt Kòd have a deeper meaning, as they evoke the Haitian proverb “Pito nou lèd, nou la,” meaning “We may be ugly, but we are still here.” This powerful statement is connected to the brutal system of slavery and symbolizes the idea that being free and alive, even if it means being “ugly,” is preferable to being subjugated under French rule.

A moto passenger being marked
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

A Shared Caribbean Tradition

The Haitian cultural tradition of Lansèt Kòd in can be found in different forms throughout the Caribbean. At Trinidad’s Carnival, participants of Jouvert (French for daybreak) cover their bodies in a variety of substances, including oil and body paint, to party in the streets. Jouvert celebrates a rebellious spirit, contrasting the allure of glitter, color, and feathers that dominate the mainstream carnival.

In Grenada, groups known as Jab-Jab participate in the annual Carnival. The name comes from the French word “Diable,” and Jab-Jab is essentially a giant street party with participants covering themselves in oil, mud, or grease and wearing cattle horns to embody the Jab-Molassie or “molasses devil”.

These traditions have roots in the pre-Lent festivities of former French colonies, where the wealthy class would don elaborate costumes and dance to orchestral music. Meanwhile, ex-slaves, with limited resources, would use ashes from burned cane, grease, and other materials to cover themselves in a satirical nod to slavery days. The music back then was created with the beating of biscuit tins, oil drums, and the blowing of conch shells. Today, these traditions have been preserved and continue to give the Caribbean region its vibrant and distinct character.

The lansèt kòd passing Alliance Française
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Final Ritual

The Lansèt Kèd group keeps the energy high as they traverse the streets of Jacmel on this sunny January Sunday. They run through the winding roads, including Rue Seymour Pradel and the picturesque Rue du Commerce, home to historic gingerbread houses. The group stops traffic at street intersections, causing cars to honk and onlookers to either flee or gather for a closer view.

A final run
Photo: Franck Fontain

As the day goes on and the steep city streets are conquered, fatigue seems unlikely to set in. The group is invigorated by their shared excitement and a dose of Haitian moonshine, known as “kleren.”

While the sun dips below the horizon in the bay of Jacmel, the previously split-up groups converge at the ocean boardwalk in Lakou New York. Laughter and conversation fill the air as the members swap stories from their day. The atmosphere is one of joy and camaraderie.

The group members run into the ocean
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Finally, at the signal from the leader, one member waves the group’s flag, a symbol of their bond and pride. And the rest of the group makes its way into the ocean for the final ritual of the day. The waves crash against their bodies, washing away the remnants of the black paint and any evidence of the day’s festivities. A ritualistic cleansing before the next Sunday’s performance.

The final lansèt kòd ritual
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Get in on the Action

Want to join the festivities and experience the unique Haitian tradition of Lansèt Kòd? You can do so by visiting JacmelJérémieCap-Haïtien, Les Cayes or other major cities in Haiti during the carnival season. Jacmel is considered the best destination for its rich history and lively pre-carnival activities, with Lansèt Kòd groups starting their weekly performances from the first Sunday of January and continuing every Sunday until the Trois Jours Gras (the three fat days), where the main carnival parade takes place.

During the Trois Jours Gras, the rope throwers play a unique role in the main carnival parade. Not only do they represent the enslaved people of the colony of Saint Domingue, but they also help maintain order during the parade. In stark contrast to their usual image as chaos-makers they joyfully chase anyone who tries to disturb the parade.

So, if you’re thinking of disrupting the parade, be prepared to be pursued by the rope throwers. And, who knows, you might just end up being blackened.

For a more unique experience, consider joining a Lansèt Kòd for their Sunday performance. They welcome new participants and will gladly integrate you into this quirky, important symbolic tradition. To learn more, talk to your local friends, host, guide, or tour operator.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published January 2023.


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

11 Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Lansèt kod group in Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

11 Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

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If you already know a little about Haiti, then you likely have an idea about our magnificent country, located on the enchanting island of Hispaniola that we share with the Dominican Republic. It’s possible, however, that you have yet to hear about some of the most unique Haitian cultural traditions only known to locals.

To satisfy your curiosity, we’ve rounded up a selection of our oldest traditions, ranging from the daily life in our rural communities to the hubbub of our cities and rich culinary culture.

group of haitians sitting on chairs and porch in courtyard
Krik-krak storytelling in Cayes Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

1. “Krik-Krak”

Any true Haitian knows that the exclamation “krik?” always proceeds with an excellent “krak,” or story, as telling tales is an integral part of Haiti’s cultural traditions. Whether under an arbor drinking lemongrass tea with cinnamon or in the comfort of a warm room, the youngest gather around the oldest to tell their tales of yesteryear.

If you want to catch the attention of a Haitian friend, take every opportunity to throw out a “krik?” and they will invariably respond with a “krak.” But your story better be a good one!

Sounds interesting, doesn’t it? Get the backstory to this unique tradition and discover the impact of krik-krak in Haitian culture. Also, for an excellent read, the book Krik? Krak! is a compilation of fascinating Haitian tales by Edwidge Danticat, one of the most famous Haitian women authors to date.

Workers in a konbit in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

2. Konbit

If you pass through some rural regions in Haiti during the tilling season, don’t be surprised to find all the villagers working together or on each other’s lands. This form of social organization in our rural societies is an essential part of our culture and one of the oldest Haitian traditions that continue to this day.

While the men happily handle their kouto digo (hatchet), and machetes to unearth and work the land before its next sowing, women prepare the meals. Moreover, the word “konbit” in Haitian Creole has come into use to refer to living in harmony and the neighborly practices that are unique to the Haitian community.

colorful painted building at a vodou community
Lakou Soukri in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

3. Lakou

Imagine living in a homeland within another, where each individual forms an integral part of a larger society devoted to a greater good. In Haiti, such a place is known as a lakou. It’s typical to see Haitian families sharing common spaces around their central family units.

The lakou serves as an educational cocoon in which the youngest members can learn about sharing and living in neighborly harmony from their elders. Those who grow up in the commune have a responsibility to one day return to honor their family, seek wise advice, and publicly apologize to the Vodou spirits or loas that may have been offended.

Many Haitian rural communities rely on the social organization that lakou provide to advance in everyday living – and not only do they till the ground together but also share and practice their belief in Haitian Vodou. The worship of spirits is deeply entrenched in the lakou, and well-known lakou like Souvans, Soukri, and Badio maintain this cultural tradition unique to Haiti.

Beny chans preparations in Kabik
Photo: Anton Lau

4. Beny chans

It might seem strange from the looks of it initially, but if you happen to come across a large water bowl of mixed herbs and leaves while traveling through Haiti, then you’ve encountered a “beny chans.” Traditionally an herbal shower for women after giving birth, it is also considered a potion for good luck, finding a soulmate, or even protection during a life-changing trip.

If you didn’t grow up in Haiti, you might be wary about dipping your hands in this unusual mixture. Still, for locals, it’s all part of the unique Haitian culture – so much so that it wouldn’t be surprising for a native living abroad to return to Haiti to receive this sacred anointment on New Year’s eve.

Feeling adventurous? Go and give it a try. But don’t forget to tap into your African-Caribbean roots with our guide on returning to the motherland.

a vodou priest and practitioner performing a dance
Ritual at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

5. Vodou ceremony and dance

Here’s one of the Haitian cultural traditions that will undoubtedly arouse your curiosity. Forget about the mainstream concept of a group of bloodthirsty Satanists gathering at a run-down Gothic-style church – this is Hollywood stereotyping at its best. Instead, think of an authentic spiritual experience where members enter a trance-like state in alignment with powerful spiritual entities.

Haitian culture isn’t the only one that has Vodou as a religious practice, with similar rituals actively performed in places like the Deep South” in Louisiana or the insular African nation of Benin. In countries such as Brazil and Cuba, the practice of Santeria is still common in many communities. The Haitian Vodou tradition, however, involves elements from years of syncretism, resulting in a blend of African, Christian, and Taíno spiritual traditions.

Vodou is a strong cultural tradition in the Haitian collective imagination—and it’s present in Haitian paintings, music, dances, and literature. More than simply religion or spirituality, Vodou is an intangible patrimony that all Haitians share, whether they consider themselves a true practitioner or not.

Ready for an experience of your own? Find out how to attend a Vodou ceremony in Haiti.

haitian man dressed in purple shirt with human bones celebrating fet gede
Fèt Gede in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

6. Fèt Gede

The dead occupy a place of central importance in Haitian daily life, and honoring them constitutes one of the most sacred cultural traditions. To do this, the entire month of November is consecrated each year to ceremonies aimed at appeasing the dead and communicating with them. The spirits that reign over the world of the dead in the Haitian Vodou pantheon are Bawon Samdi and Grann Brigitte.

The Gédé symbolizes the spirits of those who have passed into the other world. During the ceremonies organized in their honor, they return to bring joy to the people with their frenzied dancing and salacious speech.

Every Haitian day of the dead celebration is packed with an aura of excitement and mysticism, which you can see for yourself in this photo journal from a Fèt Gede celebration in Gonaîves.

group of haitian walking while playing on trumpets during rara festivities
Rara band marching in Bois Moquette
Photo: Franck Fontain

7. Rara

Not all Haitian cultural traditions have origins as dark as those about death. In fact, some of them are rather joyous, and the Rara is a perfect example. These groups that march on foot along the streets during pre-Carnaval weekends and the Easter period constitute one of Haiti’s best-known cultural practices.

These spirited groups of bons vivants play various instruments, such as bamboo, the vaccine, cymbals, and sometimes even trumpets and other brass instruments. Their repertoire can run from parodies of popular songs to original songs and those written for special occasions.

Each group is preceded by a man who carries a flag, a woman who wears the group’s colors, and young girls who start the procession. Following are musicians and the rest of the good-natured group that dances along to the sound of the music.

Now, the practice of Rara isn’t only particular to Haiti; other Caribbean nations like Cuba and the Dominican Republic, where it is known as Gaga, have adopted this cultural tradition from Haiti.

Get the true origins behind the Rara tradition of Haiti and join the celebration!

A group of lansèt kod in Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

8. Lansèt kòd

If you visit Haiti during the Carnival period, you’ll undoubtedly have the chance to witness one of the most unforgettable cultural traditions: the famous procession of the Lansèt Kòd. Some Haitians will tell you that they were traumatized by it as children. These groups that flood the streets of towns such as Jacmel, Jérémie, or Cap-Haïtien on pre-Carnival Sundays have more than what it takes to impress.

Wearing bull horns on their heads and whips in hand, these men with rippling muscles and bare chests fill up the streets while covered entirely in black paint. Yes, you read that right—they are completely covered with a blacker-than-black substance that will surely make you think of crude oil. Throughout the Carnival procession, they’ll offer up a performance that will remain ingrained in your memory for some time.

Learn more about the Lansèt kòd tradition here!

A line of dancers perform at the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti
Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

9. Carnival

The Haitian carnival is one of the most widely recognized in the Caribbean. The one hosted in Jacmel has been decreed a national festival due to its artistic allure, attracting numerous tourists every year. It is a brightly colored cultural manifestation where you’ll see Haitian artisans’ talent displayed in themes reminiscent of flora and fauna of the country.

This popular celebration is not only an occasion for artists and artisans to display their talents or attract visitors – but it’s also a means for the population to express their problems with the powers that be. It’s a celebration where all levels of society come together without embarrassment or worrying about societal barriers.

If you’re looking to be part of the festivities this February, then you’d better be prepared to party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnaval.

A bowl of soup joumou
Soup Joumou
Photo: Franck Fontain

10. Soup Joumou

If you visit any Haitian family on New Year’s Day, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by a culinary practice as old as Haiti: the traditional Soup Joumou preparation. So forget about your desire to eat anything else, and let our succulent soup seduce your tastebuds.

Prepared from a giraumont (turban squash) base, where the soup gets its name -as well as vegetables and tubers – this dish is a staple in all Haitian households on New Year’s Day. Don’t be surprised to see people incorporating Soup Joumou with every meal served during the entire celebration. It’s just that good.

This tradition hearkens back to January 1st, 1804, when the young nation chose this delicious dish – until then only reserved for the colonizers and special guests – to celebrate their freshly acquired liberty.

Want to find out what makes Soup Joumou so unique? Pick up on some of the history behind the dish, and learn the basics of preparing the best Soup Joumou.

Fête champêtre in Saut d’Eau
Photo: Franck Fontain

11. Fête champêtre

Every city in Haiti has its own patron Saint to which the inhabitants turn to confess their troubles and joys or make special petitions. These cultural celebrations of the patron saints, also called fête champêtres, are on another level.

Regardless of their religious beliefs, locals from other provincial towns, as well as a crowd of curious onlookers and tourists, head toward the capital cities from each village to celebrate the feast dedicated to the patron saint.

Along with religious pilgrims, you also have the partygoers who are only there to enjoy the festival following the Grand Mass of the local parish. Among the most popular fêtes champêtres in Haiti are the celebrations of Notre Dame of Mount Carmel in Saut d’Eau and Notre Dame in Petit Goâve.

Gather with the locals and go on a pilgrimage to Saut d’Eau, whether for spiritual reasons or just to celebrate and party hard with the crowd.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published December 2022.


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