Wildlife & Nature

Explore Haitian Nature at Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve

November 1, 2018 by Editor

Group of students eating lunch at a farm in Haiti — Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore Haitian Nature at Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve

Tucked into the foothills of the Chaîne de la Selle mountain range, Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve is a successful sustainability initiative where visitors can get up close and personal with nature in Haiti.

The surrounding township of Kenscoff is located an impressive 6000 feet above sea level – that’s the same elevation as Ethiopia’s coffee farms! This altitude has created unique challenges for the local farmers who live in these foothills, and farming techniques imported from eighteenth-century Europe have not provided sustainable solutions to those challenges. As is the case across Europe, Australia and the Americas, the natural abundance of the Kenscoff region found itself losing the battle against erosion and deforestation.

Striving for sustainable solutions

At least, that was, until the 1950s, when Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve was established to explore innovative agricultural techniques capable of adapting to the unique conditions. An American civil engineer named Victor Ainsley Wynne oversaw the early days of the Farm, stitched together 30 acres out of a patchwork of smaller plots of farmland purchased from local farmers.

Together with a crew of 40 dedicated men, Wynne used this new wide open space to preserve and proliferate several species indigenous to the Haitian landscape, and planted alongside them many new breeds of trees, fruits and vegetables imported from around the world.

Wynne Farm in Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

Now a nature reserve

In recent decades Wynne Farm has evolved into the Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve, signalling a strong intention to protect this much-needed public green space into the future. Haitians are increasingly seeing the value of protected spaces, and visiting this Reserve affords an excellent opportunity to see an early example and encourage more protection of Haiti’s natural heritage.

Get involved

As such, Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve is a national focal point for environmental education, and offers a variety of ways to get involved. Guests can volunteer and participate in local afforestation projects by planting trees, or overload on cuteness at the animal sanctuary. You won’t find any wildlife living in captivity here – instead, you can get up close with the domesticated animals that live and work on Wynne Farm. You can even go horse-riding.

One of the few ways to go horse-riding in haiti, this activity is adapted to suit your level. While everyone has to pay for initial supervised classes to get comfortable with the horses, experienced rider are then allowed to strike out on their own. It’s best to book ahead of time to ensure you’ll have a horse when you get there, but as long as a suitable horse is free it’s easy to sign up on the day.

To get more out of a visit to Wynne Farm, guests can stay on site in comfortable accommodation. It’s worth it if only for the luxury of that first-thing-in-the-morning sip of hot coffee in the crisp mountain air. You can overnight in your own tent, a rented tent, or in a cabin.

Man carries flowers along green path at a farm — Wynne Farm in Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

Support sustainable farming

If you’d like to see more ecological reserves on Haiti, you can support Wynne Farm by making a donation. You can donate directly at the reserve, but you can also buy a membership in advance, guaranteeing free entrance when you visit. Membership is available for adults and children, in Bronze, Silver, Gold, and Platinum levels. Wynne Farm also gives visitors the opportunity to donate and financially support local farmers.

A small, fun and instantly gratifying way to donate is to pay $5 to plant a tree at the farm!

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published November 2018

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Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

October 15, 2018 by Editor

Aerial view of the waterfall at Saut Mathurine, Haiti — Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

The south coast is full of hidden treasures waiting to be discovered, and Saut-Mathurine, Haiti’s largest waterfall, is one of them.

A hidden world

A 40 minute drive out of the western city of Les Cayes, the waterfall is at its most spectacular around May and June, but this is also when the road to get there is at its most – lets say adventurous.

During the rainy season, the Cavaillon river that feeds Saut Mathurine flows powerfully, and you can hear the crashing falls from a distance. In January – Haiti’s driest month- it may not be running at all, but the pool is still a gorgeous place to swim and the jungle scenery is every bit as lush and dramatic as during the rains.

Saut-Mathurine runs through a ravine, and the scene is something out of Jurassic Park: the waterfall thunders into a pristine pool of bright aqua waters, almost green but crystal-clear. Half of the pool is accessible – the other is jagged rock cliffs frothing with jungle trees, vines and moss. At the far end from the waterfall, water cascades over the edge of the pool and becomes rapids that continue on through the ravine. The ridges of the ravine overflow with towering native forest, full of exotic bird song blending in with the sound of the waterfall.

On the accessible side, there’s a cobblestone ledge to make it easier to get right up close to the water’s edge without falling in. But bring swimwear! Saut Mathurine is a fantastic place to swim and is considered better even than Gelée Beach.

The water is ice cold, but on sunny days (practically all!) It’s worth it! A few hours is in this paradise is enough to wash away six months of working way too hard on whatever it is that you do.

A climb up a side track leads to the top of the waterfall from where you have a wonderful view and access to some natural pools.

Les Cayes is one of the cities the most travellers don’t reach – Jacmel or Saint-Louis-du-Sud are closer to Port-au-Prince. If you manage to make it as far west as Les Cayes, make it a point to visit Saut Mathurine.

Waterfall at Saut Mathurine, Haiti — Saut Mathurine waterfall, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Getting there

Saut Mathurine is off the beaten path for most travellers – quite literally. The road is unpaved and you’ll need a 4×4 to get there, but it’s worth the bumpy ride. You can hire 4×4 vehicles in Les Cayes. If you’re not used to driving on rough roads, ask if the car company can provide an experienced driver as well. If you enjoy driving off-road though, getting there is an absolute adventure.

Access to the waterfall is via a park entrance – a gap in the wall with a small office to the side. The entrance fee for travellers is 100 Haitian gourdes. Inside the walls, there’s much more to discover than the waterfall itself – you can walk along the riverside and around steps carved into or laid around the otherwise wild jungle. There is a boutique selling local crafts and a restaurant on site.

Turquoise pool at Saut Mathurine, Haiti — Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018

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Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

August 16, 2018 by Editor

New forest growth in Forêt des Pins, Haiti — Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

Fresh air, deep tree cover and stunning views make the Forêt de Pins a sought-after destination for active travellers looking for adventure and the chance to get close to Haiti’s wildlife and nature.

A vast expanse of tropical and subtropical coniferous forests straddling the border between Haiti and the Dominican Republic, the Forêt de Pins is located in the south-east corner of Haiti, on the Chaîne de la Selle mountain range.

Fresh air, deep tree cover and hiking opportunities make the Forêt de Pins a sought-after destination for active travellers looking for adventure and the chance to get close to Haiti’s wildlife, birdlife and nature. The forest also contains Haiti’s highest mountain, Pic La Selle, which reaches 8773 feet. Pic La Selle offers spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola and climbing the peak, including travel from Port-au-Prince, can easily be done in one weekend.

Forêt de Pins is currently in a process of recovery, after surviving a trend of deforestation that began in the 1930s and peaked in the 1960s. Although local communities have used forest products including timber and charcoal for fuel, the most significant damage was done by large corporations with ties to the government of that time, who sold forest products to American companies that made, of all things, aeronautical resin oil.

Laws are now in place to protect the forest and in 2007 the first reforestation projects began, with 1500 trees planted by locals. With more locals using propane tanks for fuel instead of traditional forest fuels, Forêt de Pins is proving to be an example of positive cooperation between a local government and national interests. This cooperation has been helped by the birth of a conservation network called Réseau pour la Sauvegarde de la Forêt des Pins, or RSFP. RSFP has partnered with Cesal, an international humanitarian aid organization, to fund train-the-trainer education programs in ten schools surrounding the forest. Through this initiative, teachers are able to spread knowledge about how to take care of the forest with low-impact livelihoods.

Sunset through the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti — Sunset, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Forêt de Pins isn’t “out of the woods” yet. Ecotourism is vital for ensuring local Haitians have access to sustainable livelihoods. This is where you come in. Guided hikes and overnight adventures in Forêt de Pins are a great way to encourage wildlife conservation and a great way to see Haiti.

Sunset next to a hotel in the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti — House in Foret des Pins, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Where to stay

Deep within the forest, there are several huts managed by the Haitian Ministry of Agriculture (MARNDR) which you can stay in through prior arrangement. It’s also possible to pitch your own tent, or find accommodation nearby in the welcoming township of Fonds-Verrettes.

Daisies growing in a field in the Forêt des Pins, Haiti — Flowers, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Verdy Verna

Getting there: Port-au-Prince to Gros Cheval

Most adventures to Forêt de Pins start in Port-au-Prince. If you’re travelling by car, the journey will take you around 4 hours including Friday afternoon traffic. Because the roads are poor in places, you’ll need a 4×4. You can rent one in Port-au-Prince for around US$350 (for up to eight people over two days including full insurance). If you’re not used to driving on rough roads, ask if the car company can provide an experienced driver as well.

Head out of Port-au-Prince via Croix des Bouquets and continue east on Route Nationale 8 toward the Malpasse/Jimani border crossing. Just after Fonds Parisien, turn right. From here the road is unpaved and rough in places but offers breathtaking views of the landscape, including over the Dominican Republic.

Follow the road into the foothills until you get to the small market town that bears the same name as the forest. In the marketplace, you’ll find a right turn which leads to Gros Cheval – you might need to ask one of the Moto taxi drivers for directions. Once you reach the marketplace in Gros Cheval, look for the green and white health centre building.

At the health centre in Gros Cheval travellers can find basic accommodation for around 500 gourdes per person, meals for around 400 per person, and guides. Guide fees are negotiated on arrival, but you can expect to pay about US$15-$25 per person in your group. Gross Cheval is the recommended departure point for adventurers wishing to climb Pic la Selle.

Daytime forest path in Forêt des Pins, Haiti — Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

A round trip takes between 8 and 12 hours. If you’ve arranged your guides the night before, you can leave Gros Cheval at 5am, driving for another hour into the forest before parking the car and starting the hike. The path will be uneven in places but no rock climbing is required. Taking a guide is still very much recommended because the path is often unclear or invisible.

The ascent takes around 3-6 hours depending on your fitness, and takes you over a ridge and four smaller peaks before you reach Pic la Selle proper. At over 8000 feet, those who are up for the adventure will be rewarded with spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola, looking over both Haiti and the Bahoruco mountain range in the Dominican Republic.

The return trip to Gros Cheval is a little quicker, and if you arranged it in advance you’ll find an evening meal waiting for you.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published August 2018

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Explore the Waterfall and Grottoes of Bassin Zim

July 26, 2018 by Editor

People swimming beneath a waterfall in Bassin Zim, Haiti — People swimming in Bassin Zim
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore the Waterfall and Glittering Grottoes of Bassin Zim

A few miles north of Hinche, Bassin Zim is a spectacular natural landmark with a waterfall, a chain of turquoise-hued pools and a network of glittering underground grottoes. There’s rumours of buried treasure, but the real treasure is out in the open.

Four people and a motorbike at the shore of Bassin Zim, Haiti — Bassin Zim
Photo: Anton Lau

The magnificent waterfall that is the centrepiece of Bassin Zim isn’t the type that crashes vertically down into the water below – instead, it cascades down the side of the mountain and fans out into a wide basin, creating one of the prettiest sights on the island.

A path winds from the basins all the way up to the top of the waterfall. You can reach the top if you can find your way, and if you’re lucky you might get to watch some experienced Haitians freediving into the pool below. We recommend against travellers trying it though – it’s more dangerous than it looks, and with so many other adventures to be had, why take the risk?

Many believe that after death, “good” or “pure” souls head to Bassin Zim to receive their blessings. There are also those who claim that the Taíno Amerindians who lived on the island before colonization have hidden a bountiful treasure somewhere in the basins or the caves below.

Bassin Zim, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Buried Treasure

Underneath Bassin Zim, there are high-ceilinged grottos that are arguably even lovelier than the basins or the waterfall. With ankle-deep water studded with smooth rocks and stalagmites, the fifty-foot high walls are painted vivid green with moss, and the rivulets of water running down them reflect the outside light, glittering in the cool dark. Stalactites hang from the ceilings, and strange stone shapes mushroom from twists in the folds of rock. For keen photographers, these caverns will provide some striking shots.

The grottos beneath Bassin Zim are just the start – this landscape is full of them, and exploring the network with the help of a friendly guide is a great way to give back as part of trip to Haiti. A hike through nature is low-impact travel for you and a rewarding way for locals to make ends meet. Guides will help you to avoid the menace lurking in some of these caves: though they’re as unlikely to harbour pirates as they are to hide treasure, they have been known to harbour wasps.

Getting to Bassin Zim

From Port-au-Prince:
To get to Bassin Zim from Port-au-Prince, drive towards Hinche and head east out of town on the 308, crossing over the Samana river. About a mile after the river crossing, take the road on your left and follow it north as it climbs through a dry, pastoral landscape, passing several churches on the way.

The lands of what we can call “Midwestern Haiti” are often parched in the dry seasons and swamped under the deluges of the wet – it’s a changeable landscape where the power of nature is felt strongly.

As you near Bassin Zim, the dry road gets rougher, and the grass greener. There’s no turn off to watch for – the road makes a few sharp turns to meet up with the Samana again and ends at Bassin Zim itself.

Entrance fees
Admission is 250 HTG (less than 3 USD) for tourists and 50 HTG for locals.

A note on guides:
Getting to parts of Bassin Zim can be tough, and we recommend hiring a local guide – especially if you plan on jumping in, as it’s notoriously difficult to get down again without a guide.

When it comes to finding a guide, don’t worry – they’ll find you! In fact, if you don’t pick a guide and insist that the other hopeful candidates leave you alone, you can end up in the awkward situation of having several guides accompany you, all expecting to be paid at the end. Choose one (or more) guide, and insist that the rest leave you to it.

Make sure you negotiate a price with your guide before you start – 250 to 500 HTG is a reasonable price. Bring the right bills with you.

Remember, never underestimate the power of the water or the risks associated. If you are not joining a tour, inform your hotel or accommodation owner where you are going and be sure to check the conditions before you trek in. Happy travels!

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2018

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Jump into the Cobalt Waters of Bassin Bleu

July 21, 2018 by admin

Person swimming beneath a waterfall in Bassin Bleu, Haiti — Bassin Bleu waterfall near Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Jump into the Cobalt Waters of Bassin Bleu

No visit to Jacmel, in Haiti’s south-east, is complete without a trip to the natural wonder of Bassin Bleu.

Guarded by imposing rock formations, this series of four cobalt-blue pools linked by waterfalls is just 12km west of Jacmel.

Jacmel is Haiti’s sixth largest city, and although it was once named the City of Light (after becoming the first city in the Caribbean to get electricity), it’s the secluded jungle basins of nearby Bassin Bleu that make Jacmel one of the most visited cities in Haiti.

Cobalt Blue Water

With four basins of pristine natural beauty to choose from – Cheval, Yes, Palmiste and Clair – you can take your pick, but the star of the show (in our humble opinion) is undoubtedly Bassin Clair.

Pool surrounded by cliffs at Bassin Bleu waterfall, Jacmel — Bassin Bleu, Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore Four Bassins

Hiking through the dense, humid greenery of the surrounding jungle to find the falls, you can expect to break a sweat, but as the rush of the waterfalls grows louder, the forest clears, and the marvellous turquoise of Cheval basin comes into focus, you’ll be glad you made the effort.

Cheval is the first basin on the trail, and although striking in colour, the water is quite safe to wade into. Cheval doesn’t make it into many travel guides, but it’s shallow depth makes it suitable for everyone, including children (under supervision of course). If you’re planning on seeing the rest of Bassin Bleu, take the time to pause at Cheval: sit back, relax, and enjoy the impressive view of the southeastern coastline while you soak your feet in the bright-blue water.

For intrepid explorers who want to continue, a short walk will bring you to the 15 ft deep Bassin Yes. Beyond Bassin Yes, you’ll be rewarded with the perfect stop for a drink and bite to eat (and another swim of course), in the form of Bassin Palmiste, an impressive 57 ft deep. A series of uniquely-crafted concrete tables and seating areas, designed to meld into and complement their natural surroundings, provide convenient places to enjoy the view in comfort.

To see firsthand the impressive Bassin Clair, you’ll need extra effort, a rope, and the help of an experienced guide. Not far past Bassin Palmiste you’ll find a narrow staircase set into the natural rock formations, which will lead you up to the top of a rock hunkered into the side of the mountain. The short descent – just 10 feet – down the other side will feel much further, and is best done under the watchful eye of a guide, assisted by the aforementioned rope. Welcome to Bassin Clair.

Woman stands on the bank of a bright blue pool at Bassin Bleu, Haiti — Bassin Bleu, Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Dive in

Beneath the inviting turquoise surface, there’s much more to this pool than meets the eye. At 75 feet deep, Bassin Clair is an incredible location for floating meditation, and offers the deep tranquility and peace that flotation tanks can only dream of. As you drift, suspended, the stone of the mountain beneath your feet gives way, and the unusual mix of minerals in the pool buoys you up, creating the sensation that you are floating through air.

For the thrill-seekers among you, mere floating may not be enough. Join the ranks of experienced (or just adventurous) locals who climb up the rock surface to one of the jumping-off points and perform dives and backflips, taking turns breaking the serene surface of Bassin Clair. Just make sure you save some of that energy – it’s easy to forget you still need to hike back out at the end of the day.

Want to see for yourself why a visit to Bassin Bleu is considered one of the best day trips in Haiti?

Getting to Bassin Bleu

Option One:
Join a tour from either Jacmel or Port-au-Prince. A veteran guide will lead you through the jungle and delivery you safely to your dream destination. With transportation included (from Port-au-Prince and typically from Jacmel as well), this option takes the effort out of the journey, leaving you with more energy to explore Bassin Bleu itself.

Option Two:
It’s possible to get to Bassin Bleu from Jacmel on foot. Head towards the Riviere Gauche and look for the sign that directs visitors ‘this way’. You’ll want to pack plenty of water for your hike through the dense vegetation up the side of the mountain. Following the inclines of the path, you’ll see plenty of interesting landscape and get a commanding view of the south-east coastline, and the reward of the swim at the end will be all the sweeter.

Entrance fees
Admission is 100 HTG per person and an additional 100 HTG per car in parking fees.

A note on guides:
Getting to Bassin Bleu can be tough but rewarding and we recommend hiring a local guide.

Make sure you negotiate a price with your guide before you start – 250 to 500 HTG is a reasonable price. Bring the right bills with you.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2018

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Wildlife & Nature

Explore Haitian Nature at Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve

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Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

The south coast is full of hidden treasures waiting to be discovered, and Saut-Mathurine, Haiti’s largest waterfall, is one of them.

A hidden world

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Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

Fresh air, deep tree cover and stunning views make the Forêt de Pins a sought-after destination for active travellers looking for adventure and the chance to get close to Haiti’s wildlife and nature.

Where to stay

Getting there: Port-au-Prince to Gros Cheval

Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

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Explore the Waterfall and Glittering Grottoes of Bassin Zim

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Jump into the Cobalt Waters of Bassin Bleu

No visit to Jacmel, in Haiti’s south-east, is complete without a trip to the natural wonder of Bassin Bleu.

Cobalt Blue Water

Explore Four Bassins

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