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Sans-Souci Palace

Aerial view of Sans-Souci Palace, Haiti, with tree-covered mountains in the background
Sans-Souci Palace, Milot, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Sans-Souci Palace

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Sans-Souci Palace shares a UNESCO World Heritage Site with the Citadelle Laferrière. A visit to both sites is considered essential for any trip to Haiti, and the hike (or horse-ride) from Milot to the Palace and then on to the Citadelle is well-worth the effort.

Sans-Souci Palace, which translates to ‘the Worry-Free Palace’, dates back to 1811, just after Haiti had become the world’s first independent black republic. Despite the weight of time – and a significant earthquake during the nineteenth century – the ruins of the Sans-Souci Palace maintain an imposing air and stand as an inspiring testament to the opulent post-revolutionary era.

Visitors can spend an hour or two exploring the palace and grounds before heading onward to the Citadelle.

History

The Sans-Souci Palace was built to serve as a residence for the revolutionary leader Henri Christophe, who would become king in 1811, a year into the palace’s construction. The palace was one of many lavish constructions Christophe ordered at that time, including the Citadelle Laferrière.

Christophe used his reign as an opportunity to build up Haiti’s standing in the eyes of the international community – particularly its former colonizer, France. Christophe was well known for the luxurious parties and feasts he hosted at the palace, and the palace’s design – from the lush gardens to the intricate waterworks installation still visible in the ruins – reflects this luxury.

The name “Sans-Souci” itself came from another Haitian revolutionary, Jean-Baptiste Sans Souci, who Christophe had asked to form a united front with, but who refused out of mistrust. A decade or so before the palace was built, Christophe invited Sans Souci to visit him. When Sans Souci accepted, he was promptly assaulted by Christophe’s guards – and legend has it that the palace bearing his name was built where he was killed.

Visiting the north of Haiti is a great way to brush up on Haiti’s history; here, visitors can see many of the country’s important landmarks, historic sites, and monuments dedicated to the memories and visions of pivotal figures in Haiti’s history.

Aerial view of the ruins of Sans-Souci Palace, Haiti
Sans-Souci Palace, Milot, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Where to eat

Restaurant Lakou Lakay prepares excellent, and huge, traditional Creole feasts – just be sure to make a reservation.

Where to sleep

Most travellers visiting Sans Souci and the Citadelle stay in Cap-Haïtien as accommodation options in Milot are fairly basic.

Getting there

Sans-Souci is located in Haiti’s North Department, close to the town of Milot.

Culturally curious travellers are well-advised to carve out a chunk of time for exploring the north of Haiti. While the capital city of Port-au-Prince and the entire South of the country are full of gorgeous destinations and exciting things to do, the North of Haiti is where a lot of the country’s history has its roots. Cap-Haïtien is the perfect base, and with the recent opening of the airport to international flights, visitors no longer need to arrive in Port-au-Prince first. Around a half-hour drive south of Cap-Haïtien is Milot, the jumping-off point for hikes to the UNESCO site.

For a small, negotiable, fee, a local guide will lead individuals or groups from nearby Milot up to the palace and guide you to the areas open to the public, which can otherwise be difficult to distinguish. A fair fee for a guide is US$20 to US$30, plus a fee for hiring a horse.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2019


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Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

Clouds gathering over the peak of Pic La Selle, Haiti
Clouds gathering over Pic La Selle
Photo: Anton Lau

Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

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“Dèyè mòn, gen mòn”

This Kreyòl proverb means “Behind mountains, there are more mountains.” Hispaniola is one of the most mountainous islands in the Caribbean, and Pic La Selle is Haiti’s highest peak.

Part of the La Selle mountain range – which also extends into the Dominican Republic – Pic La Selle is over 8,700 feet, making it the highest mountain peak in Haiti, and the third highest in the Caribbean. If you’re the adventurous type, the La Selle range should be on your radar. A single-day climb affords panoramic views over the island of Hispaniola and out across the Caribbean.

Located in the south-east of the West department of Haiti, La Selle is accessible via the neighborhood of Croix-des-Bouquets, but also via the small town of Marigot, less than an hour’s drive from Jacmel. From there, the road gets rough, so it’s strongly recommended that you head to Pic La Selle with a 4-by-4.

The roads in Haiti, especially the mountainous ones, can be arduous, and if it is your first time going to Pic La Selle, it’s recommended that you hire a driver or at least a guide who knows the twists and turns in the road. Luckily, you’ll find guides who specialise in guiding hikes from city to summit.

Is the journey more important to you than the destination? You might prefer to hike or drive through the La Selle mountains via Furcy. This scenic route is lusher and the peaks and valleys more dramatic, and will appeal to nature-lovers who don’t necessarily want to scale Pic La Selle itself. Again, your best bet is to have someone on your team who has been before, or to make friends with a local. You can even arrange a guided tour on horseback.

Hiking through the dry coniferous forest, you’ll come to appreciate the saying “Dèyè mòn, gen mòn.” The mountains fold and unfold in front of you, seemingly to no end. Depending on the weather, they may be lanced with tufts of clouds, weaving between them.

Getting there: Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

A round trip takes between 8 and 12 hours. If you’ve arranged your guides the night before, you can leave Gros Cheval at 5am, driving for another hour into the forest before parking the car and starting the hike. The path will be uneven in places but no rock climbing is required. Taking a guide is still very much recommended because the path is often unclear or invisible.

The ascent takes around 3-6 hours depending on your fitness, and takes you over a ridge and four smaller peaks before you reach Pic la Selle proper. At over 8000 feet, those who are up for the adventure will be rewarded with spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola, looking over the borderlands between Haiti and the Bahoruco mountain range in the Dominican Republic. This area is part of the expansive Transboundary La Selle-Jaragua-Bahoruco-Enriquillo Biosphere Reserve, a protected region showcasing the rich biodiversity shared between the two nations.

The return trip to Gros Cheval is a little quicker, and if you arranged it in advance you’ll find an evening meal waiting for you.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

Aerial view of the waterfall at Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

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A hidden world

A 40 minute drive out of the western city of Les Cayes, the waterfall is at its most spectacular around May and June, but this is also when the road to get there is at its most – lets say adventurous.

During the rainy season, the Cavaillon river that feeds Saut Mathurine flows powerfully, and you can hear the crashing falls from a distance. In January – Haiti’s driest month-  it may not be running at all, but the pool is still a gorgeous place to swim and the jungle scenery is every bit as lush and dramatic as during the rains.

Saut-Mathurine runs through a ravine, and the scene is something out of Jurassic Park: the waterfall thunders into a pristine pool of bright aqua waters, almost green but crystal-clear. Half of the pool is accessible – the other is jagged rock cliffs frothing with jungle trees, vines and moss. At the far end from the waterfall, water cascades over the edge of the pool and becomes rapids that continue on through the ravine. The ridges of the ravine overflow with towering native forest, full of exotic bird song blending in with the sound of the waterfall.

On the accessible side, there’s a cobblestone ledge to make it easier to get right up close to the water’s edge without falling in. But bring swimwear! Saut Mathurine is a fantastic place to swim and is considered better even than Gelée Beach.

The water is ice cold, but on sunny days (practically all!) It’s worth it! A few hours is in this paradise is enough to wash away six months of working way too hard on whatever it is that you do.

A climb up a side track leads to the top of the waterfall from where you have a wonderful view and access to some natural pools.

Les Cayes is one of the cities the most travellers don’t reach – Jacmel or Saint-Louis-du-Sud are closer to Port-au-Prince. If you manage to make it as far west as Les Cayes, make it a point to visit Saut Mathurine.

Waterfall at Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Saut Mathurine waterfall, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Getting there

Saut Mathurine is off the beaten path for most travellers – quite literally. The road is unpaved and you’ll need a 4×4 to get there, but it’s worth the bumpy ride. You can hire 4×4 vehicles in Les Cayes. If you’re not used to driving on rough roads, ask if the car company can provide an experienced driver as well. If you enjoy driving off-road though, getting there is an absolute adventure.

Access to the waterfall is via a park entrance – a gap in the wall with a small office to the side. The entrance fee for travellers is 100 Haitian gourdes. Inside the walls, there’s much more to discover than the waterfall itself – you can walk along the riverside and around steps carved into or laid around the otherwise wild jungle. There is a boutique selling local crafts and a restaurant on site.

Turquoise pool at Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

New forest growth in Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

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A vast expanse of tropical and subtropical coniferous forests straddling the border between Haiti and the Dominican Republic, the Forêt de Pins is located in the south-east corner of Haiti, on the Chaîne de la Selle mountain range.

Fresh air, deep tree cover and hiking opportunities make the Forêt de Pins a sought-after destination for active travellers looking for adventure and the chance to get close to Haiti’s wildlifebirdlife and nature. The forest also contains Haiti’s highest mountain, Pic La Selle, which reaches 8773 feet. Pic La Selle offers spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola and climbing the peak, including travel from Port-au-Prince, can easily be done in one weekend.

Forêt de Pins is currently in a process of recovery, after surviving a trend of deforestation that began in the 1930s and peaked in the 1960s. Although local communities have used forest products including timber and charcoal for fuel, the most significant damage was done by large corporations with ties to the government of that time, who sold forest products to American companies that made, of all things, aeronautical resin oil.

Laws are now in place to protect the forest and in 2007 the first reforestation projects began, with 1500 trees planted by locals. With more locals using propane tanks for fuel instead of traditional forest fuels, Forêt de Pins is proving to be an example of positive cooperation between a local government and national interests. This cooperation has been helped by the birth of a conservation network called Réseau pour la Sauvegarde de la Forêt des Pins, or RSFP. RSFP has partnered with Cesal, an international humanitarian aid organization, to fund train-the-trainer education programs in ten schools surrounding the forest. Through this initiative, teachers are able to spread knowledge about how to take care of the forest with low-impact livelihoods.

Sunset through the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Sunset, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Forêt de Pins isn’t “out of the woods” yet. Ecotourism is vital for ensuring local Haitians have access to sustainable livelihoods. This is where you come in. Guided hikes and overnight adventures in Forêt de Pins are a great way to encourage wildlife conservation and a great way to see Haiti.

Sunset next to a hotel in the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti
House in Foret des Pins, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Where to stay

Deep within the forest, there are several huts managed by the Haitian Ministry of Agriculture (MARNDR) which you can stay in through prior arrangement. It’s also possible to pitch your own tent, or find accommodation nearby in the welcoming township of Fonds-Verrettes.

Daisies growing in a field in the Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Flowers, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Verdy Verna

Getting there: Port-au-Prince to Gros Cheval

Most adventures to Forêt de Pins start in Port-au-Prince. If you’re travelling by car, the journey will take you around 4 hours including Friday afternoon traffic. Because the roads are poor in places, you’ll need a 4×4. You can rent one in Port-au-Prince for around US$350 (for up to eight people over two days including full insurance). If you’re not used to driving on rough roads, ask if the car company can provide an experienced driver as well.

Head out of Port-au-Prince via Croix des Bouquets and continue east on Route Nationale 8 toward the Malpasse/Jimani border crossing. Just after Fonds Parisien, turn right. From here the road is unpaved and rough in places but offers breathtaking views of the landscape, including over the Dominican Republic.

Follow the road into the foothills until you get to the small market town that bears the same name as the forest. In the marketplace, you’ll find a right turn which leads to Gros Cheval – you might need to ask one of the Moto taxi drivers for directions. Once you reach the marketplace in Gros Cheval, look for the green and white health centre building.

At the health centre in Gros Cheval travellers can find basic accommodation for around 500 gourdes per person, meals for around 400 per person, and guides. Guide fees are negotiated on arrival, but you can expect to pay about US$15-$25 per person in your group. Gross Cheval is the recommended departure point for adventurers wishing to climb Pic la Selle.

Daytime forest path in Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

A round trip takes between 8 and 12 hours. If you’ve arranged your guides the night before, you can leave Gros Cheval at 5am, driving for another hour into the forest before parking the car and starting the hike. The path will be uneven in places but no rock climbing is required. Taking a guide is still very much recommended because the path is often unclear or invisible.

The ascent takes around 3-6 hours depending on your fitness, and takes you over a ridge and four smaller peaks before you reach Pic la Selle proper. At over 8000 feet, those who are up for the adventure will be rewarded with spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola, looking over both Haiti and the Bahoruco mountain range in the Dominican Republic.

The return trip to Gros Cheval is a little quicker, and if you arranged it in advance you’ll find an evening meal waiting for you.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published August 2018


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