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Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

Clouds gathering over the peak of Pic La Selle, Haiti
Clouds gathering over Pic La Selle
Photo: Anton Lau

Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

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“Dèyè mòn, gen mòn”

This Kreyòl proverb means “Behind mountains, there are more mountains.” Hispaniola is one of the most mountainous islands in the Caribbean, and Pic La Selle is Haiti’s highest peak.

Part of the La Selle mountain range – which also extends into the Dominican Republic – Pic La Selle is over 8,700 feet, making it the highest mountain peak in Haiti, and the third highest in the Caribbean. If you’re the adventurous type, the La Selle range should be on your radar. A single-day climb affords panoramic views over the island of Hispaniola and out across the Caribbean.

Located in the south-east of the West department of Haiti, La Selle is accessible via the neighborhood of Croix-des-Bouquets, but also via the small town of Marigot, less than an hour’s drive from Jacmel. From there, the road gets rough, so it’s strongly recommended that you head to Pic La Selle with a 4-by-4.

The roads in Haiti, especially the mountainous ones, can be arduous, and if it is your first time going to Pic La Selle, it’s recommended that you hire a driver or at least a guide who knows the twists and turns in the road. Luckily, you’ll find guides who specialise in guiding hikes from city to summit.

Is the journey more important to you than the destination? You might prefer to hike or drive through the La Selle mountains via Furcy. This scenic route is lusher and the peaks and valleys more dramatic, and will appeal to nature-lovers who don’t necessarily want to scale Pic La Selle itself. Again, your best bet is to have someone on your team who has been before, or to make friends with a local. You can even arrange a guided tour on horseback.

Hiking through the dry coniferous forest, you’ll come to appreciate the saying “Dèyè mòn, gen mòn.” The mountains fold and unfold in front of you, seemingly to no end. Depending on the weather, they may be lanced with tufts of clouds, weaving between them.

Getting there: Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

A round trip takes between 8 and 12 hours. If you’ve arranged your guides the night before, you can leave Gros Cheval at 5am, driving for another hour into the forest before parking the car and starting the hike. The path will be uneven in places but no rock climbing is required. Taking a guide is still very much recommended because the path is often unclear or invisible.

The ascent takes around 3-6 hours depending on your fitness, and takes you over a ridge and four smaller peaks before you reach Pic la Selle proper. At over 8000 feet, those who are up for the adventure will be rewarded with spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola, looking over the borderlands between Haiti and the Bahoruco mountain range in the Dominican Republic. This area is part of the expansive Transboundary La Selle-Jaragua-Bahoruco-Enriquillo Biosphere Reserve, a protected region showcasing the rich biodiversity shared between the two nations.

The return trip to Gros Cheval is a little quicker, and if you arranged it in advance you’ll find an evening meal waiting for you.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018


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Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

Aerial view of the waterfall at Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

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A hidden world

A 40 minute drive out of the western city of Les Cayes, the waterfall is at its most spectacular around May and June, but this is also when the road to get there is at its most – lets say adventurous.

During the rainy season, the Cavaillon river that feeds Saut Mathurine flows powerfully, and you can hear the crashing falls from a distance. In January – Haiti’s driest month-  it may not be running at all, but the pool is still a gorgeous place to swim and the jungle scenery is every bit as lush and dramatic as during the rains.

Saut-Mathurine runs through a ravine, and the scene is something out of Jurassic Park: the waterfall thunders into a pristine pool of bright aqua waters, almost green but crystal-clear. Half of the pool is accessible – the other is jagged rock cliffs frothing with jungle trees, vines and moss. At the far end from the waterfall, water cascades over the edge of the pool and becomes rapids that continue on through the ravine. The ridges of the ravine overflow with towering native forest, full of exotic bird song blending in with the sound of the waterfall.

On the accessible side, there’s a cobblestone ledge to make it easier to get right up close to the water’s edge without falling in. But bring swimwear! Saut Mathurine is a fantastic place to swim and is considered better even than Gelée Beach.

The water is ice cold, but on sunny days (practically all!) It’s worth it! A few hours is in this paradise is enough to wash away six months of working way too hard on whatever it is that you do.

A climb up a side track leads to the top of the waterfall from where you have a wonderful view and access to some natural pools.

Les Cayes is one of the cities the most travellers don’t reach – Jacmel or Saint-Louis-du-Sud are closer to Port-au-Prince. If you manage to make it as far west as Les Cayes, make it a point to visit Saut Mathurine.

Waterfall at Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Saut Mathurine waterfall, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Getting there

Saut Mathurine is off the beaten path for most travellers – quite literally. The road is unpaved and you’ll need a 4×4 to get there, but it’s worth the bumpy ride. You can hire 4×4 vehicles in Les Cayes. If you’re not used to driving on rough roads, ask if the car company can provide an experienced driver as well. If you enjoy driving off-road though, getting there is an absolute adventure.

Access to the waterfall is via a park entrance – a gap in the wall with a small office to the side. The entrance fee for travellers is 100 Haitian gourdes. Inside the walls, there’s much more to discover than the waterfall itself – you can walk along the riverside and around steps carved into or laid around the otherwise wild jungle. There is a boutique selling local crafts and a restaurant on site.

Turquoise pool at Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018


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Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

New forest growth in Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

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A vast expanse of tropical and subtropical coniferous forests straddling the border between Haiti and the Dominican Republic, the Forêt de Pins is located in the south-east corner of Haiti, on the Chaîne de la Selle mountain range.

Fresh air, deep tree cover and hiking opportunities make the Forêt de Pins a sought-after destination for active travellers looking for adventure and the chance to get close to Haiti’s wildlifebirdlife and nature. The forest also contains Haiti’s highest mountain, Pic La Selle, which reaches 8773 feet. Pic La Selle offers spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola and climbing the peak, including travel from Port-au-Prince, can easily be done in one weekend.

Forêt de Pins is currently in a process of recovery, after surviving a trend of deforestation that began in the 1930s and peaked in the 1960s. Although local communities have used forest products including timber and charcoal for fuel, the most significant damage was done by large corporations with ties to the government of that time, who sold forest products to American companies that made, of all things, aeronautical resin oil.

Laws are now in place to protect the forest and in 2007 the first reforestation projects began, with 1500 trees planted by locals. With more locals using propane tanks for fuel instead of traditional forest fuels, Forêt de Pins is proving to be an example of positive cooperation between a local government and national interests. This cooperation has been helped by the birth of a conservation network called Réseau pour la Sauvegarde de la Forêt des Pins, or RSFP. RSFP has partnered with Cesal, an international humanitarian aid organization, to fund train-the-trainer education programs in ten schools surrounding the forest. Through this initiative, teachers are able to spread knowledge about how to take care of the forest with low-impact livelihoods.

Sunset through the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Sunset, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Forêt de Pins isn’t “out of the woods” yet. Ecotourism is vital for ensuring local Haitians have access to sustainable livelihoods. This is where you come in. Guided hikes and overnight adventures in Forêt de Pins are a great way to encourage wildlife conservation and a great way to see Haiti.

Sunset next to a hotel in the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti
House in Foret des Pins, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Where to stay

Deep within the forest, there are several huts managed by the Haitian Ministry of Agriculture (MARNDR) which you can stay in through prior arrangement. It’s also possible to pitch your own tent, or find accommodation nearby in the welcoming township of Fonds-Verrettes.

Daisies growing in a field in the Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Flowers, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Verdy Verna

Getting there: Port-au-Prince to Gros Cheval

Most adventures to Forêt de Pins start in Port-au-Prince. If you’re travelling by car, the journey will take you around 4 hours including Friday afternoon traffic. Because the roads are poor in places, you’ll need a 4×4. You can rent one in Port-au-Prince for around US$350 (for up to eight people over two days including full insurance). If you’re not used to driving on rough roads, ask if the car company can provide an experienced driver as well.

Head out of Port-au-Prince via Croix des Bouquets and continue east on Route Nationale 8 toward the Malpasse/Jimani border crossing. Just after Fonds Parisien, turn right. From here the road is unpaved and rough in places but offers breathtaking views of the landscape, including over the Dominican Republic.

Follow the road into the foothills until you get to the small market town that bears the same name as the forest. In the marketplace, you’ll find a right turn which leads to Gros Cheval – you might need to ask one of the Moto taxi drivers for directions. Once you reach the marketplace in Gros Cheval, look for the green and white health centre building.

At the health centre in Gros Cheval travellers can find basic accommodation for around 500 gourdes per person, meals for around 400 per person, and guides. Guide fees are negotiated on arrival, but you can expect to pay about US$15-$25 per person in your group. Gross Cheval is the recommended departure point for adventurers wishing to climb Pic la Selle.

Daytime forest path in Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

A round trip takes between 8 and 12 hours. If you’ve arranged your guides the night before, you can leave Gros Cheval at 5am, driving for another hour into the forest before parking the car and starting the hike. The path will be uneven in places but no rock climbing is required. Taking a guide is still very much recommended because the path is often unclear or invisible.

The ascent takes around 3-6 hours depending on your fitness, and takes you over a ridge and four smaller peaks before you reach Pic la Selle proper. At over 8000 feet, those who are up for the adventure will be rewarded with spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola, looking over both Haiti and the Bahoruco mountain range in the Dominican Republic.

The return trip to Gros Cheval is a little quicker, and if you arranged it in advance you’ll find an evening meal waiting for you.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published August 2018


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Jump into the Cobalt Waters of Bassin Bleu

Person swimming beneath a waterfall in Bassin Bleu, Haiti
Bassin Bleu waterfall near Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Jump into the Cobalt Waters of Bassin Bleu

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Guarded by imposing rock formations, this series of four cobalt-blue pools linked by waterfalls is just 12km west of Jacmel.

Jacmel is Haiti’s sixth largest city, and although it was once named the City of Light (after becoming the first city in the Caribbean to get electricity), it’s the secluded jungle basins of nearby Bassin Bleu that make Jacmel one of the most visited cities in Haiti.

Cobalt Blue Water

With four basins of pristine natural beauty to choose from – Cheval, Yes, Palmiste and Clair – you can take your pick, but the star of the show (in our humble opinion) is undoubtedly Bassin Clair.

Pool surrounded by cliffs at Bassin Bleu waterfall, Jacmel
Bassin Bleu, Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore Four Bassins

Hiking through the dense, humid greenery of the surrounding jungle to find the falls, you can expect to break a sweat, but as the rush of the waterfalls grows louder, the forest clears, and the marvellous turquoise of Cheval basin comes into focus, you’ll be glad you made the effort.

Cheval is the first basin on the trail, and although striking in colour, the water is quite safe to wade into. Cheval doesn’t make it into many travel guides, but it’s shallow depth makes it suitable for everyone, including children (under supervision of course). If you’re planning on seeing the rest of Bassin Bleu, take the time to pause at Cheval: sit back, relax, and enjoy the impressive view of the southeastern coastline while you soak your feet in the bright-blue water.

For intrepid explorers who want to continue, a short walk will bring you to the 15 ft deep Bassin Yes. Beyond Bassin Yes, you’ll be rewarded with the perfect stop for a drink and bite to eat (and another swim of course), in the form of Bassin Palmiste, an impressive 57 ft deep. A series of uniquely-crafted concrete tables and seating areas, designed to meld into and complement their natural surroundings, provide convenient places to enjoy the view in comfort.

To see firsthand the impressive Bassin Clair, you’ll need extra effort, a rope, and the help of an experienced guide. Not far past Bassin Palmiste you’ll find a narrow staircase set into the natural rock formations, which will lead you up to the top of a rock hunkered into the side of the mountain. The short descent – just 10 feet – down the other side will feel much further, and is best done under the watchful eye of a guide, assisted by the aforementioned rope. Welcome to Bassin Clair.

Woman stands on the bank of a bright blue pool at Bassin Bleu, Haiti
Bassin Bleu, Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Dive in

Beneath the inviting turquoise surface, there’s much more to this pool than meets the eye. At 75 feet deep, Bassin Clair is an incredible location for floating meditation, and offers the deep tranquility and peace that flotation tanks can only dream of. As you drift, suspended, the stone of the mountain beneath your feet gives way, and the unusual mix of minerals in the pool buoys you up, creating the sensation that you are floating through air.

For the thrill-seekers among you, mere floating may not be enough. Join the ranks of experienced (or just adventurous) locals who climb up the rock surface to one of the jumping-off points and perform dives and backflips, taking turns breaking the serene surface of Bassin Clair. Just make sure you save some of that energy – it’s easy to forget you still need to hike back out at the end of the day.

Want to see for yourself why a visit to Bassin Bleu is considered one of the best day trips in Haiti?

Getting to Bassin Bleu

Option One:
Join a tour from either Jacmel or Port-au-Prince. A veteran guide will lead you through the jungle and delivery you safely to your dream destination. With transportation included (from Port-au-Prince and typically from Jacmel as well), this option takes the effort out of the journey, leaving you with more energy to explore Bassin Bleu itself.

Option Two:
It’s possible to get to Bassin Bleu from Jacmel on foot. Head towards the Riviere Gauche and look for the sign that directs visitors ‘this way’. You’ll want to pack plenty of water for your hike through the dense vegetation up the side of the mountain. Following the inclines of the path, you’ll see plenty of interesting landscape and get a commanding view of the south-east coastline, and the reward of the swim at the end will be all the sweeter.

Entrance fees 
Admission is 100 HTG per person and an additional 100 HTG per car in parking fees.

A note on guides:
Getting to Bassin Bleu can be tough but rewarding and we recommend hiring a local guide.

When it comes to finding a guide, don’t worry – they’ll find you! In fact, if you don’t pick a guide and insist that the other hopeful candidates leave you alone, you can end up in the awkward situation of having several guides accompany you, all expecting to be paid at the end. Choose one (or more) guide, and insist that the rest leave you to it.

Make sure you negotiate a price with your guide before you start – 250 to 500 HTG is a reasonable price. Bring the right bills with you.

Remember, never underestimate the power of the water or the risks associated. If you are not joining a tour, inform your hotel or accommodation owner where you are going and be sure to check the conditions before you trek in. Happy travels!


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2018


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle