TRAVEL UPDATE: Visit Haiti from Home

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Hike to Historic Fort Jacques

view of an old fortress on a mountain top surrounded by pine trees
View of Fort Jacques, Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

Hike to historic Fort Jacques

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Early mornings at Fort Jacques are a peaceful escape from the busy island of Haiti, and are an easy way to get out of the city without having to head to the provinces. While the forest is still waking up, you’ll be surrounded by the songs of exotic birds – many endemic to the island – as well as the rustling and conversation of merchants setting up shop. At the end of your hike, sitting at a picnic table in the middle of the mountain wilderness, you’ll see why a trip to Fort Jacques – one of the cheapest things to do in Haiti – is also one of the best.

Defending Haiti’s Independence

After Haiti gained its independence in 1804, most people were busy celebrating. Their newfound freedom from colonial rule was a powerful cultural moment for Haitians in the same way that independence from British rule was for Americans, and continues to be just as important to this day.

With celebrations still underway, Alexandre Pétion – the Division General of the Haitian military – foresaw that the colonizers might not let Haitians enjoy their freedom for too long. As a way to prevent the French returning to seize control of the island again, Pétion oversaw the construction of two forts: Fort Alexandre and Fort Jacques.

While Fort Alexandre was named for Pétion himself, Fort Jacques takes its name from Jean-Jacques Dessalines, who was then the emperor of Haiti. Construction work was complete within a year; Pétion wasted no time making sure that Haiti was ready to fend off would-be conquerors.

The location of Fort Jacques was not left to chance. From the battlements, one can look out over the entire bay of Port-au-Prince, giving defenders advanced warning of any naval attacks. Today, centuries after construction, Fort Jacques stands as a point of reference for the locals and tourists who venture into these parts of the mountain. The fort still houses some of the cannons that were designated to defend Haiti’s independence.

These days, the fortress is much more than a monument to more dangerous times, and a visit to Fort-Jacques offers an escape to peaceful green spaces. The path that leads up to the fort is flanked by the soccer field of a nearby school to the left, and on the right, trees so dense that it’s hard to see through them.

Exterior of Fort Jacques, Haiti
Fort Jacques, Kenscoff
Photo: Anton Lau

Getting there

The best way to enjoy what Fort Jacques has to offer is to wake up a little earlier than usual one morning, lace your running or hiking shoes up, pack a bite to eat for breakfast, and drive up to the Fermathe church, or take a bus that will drop you there. If you are in Pétion-Ville, Fermathe is only a thirty- or forty-minute car ride away. Don’t forget to pack a sweater!

From Fermathe, the challenge – and real fun, begins. The road is paved, making the walk up to the fort an enjoyable hike. In the morning, the sun’s rays are still soft, and the hike is pleasant. You can take your time and sample some of the market goods on the way to the fort.

The road is lined with merchants selling street food, whose kitchens are either housed in a little strip of small houses, or, as you get closer to the fort’s entrance, out in the open. If something a little fancier is what you crave, stop in at Fort Jacques Bakery. Past the liquor and snack sellers, a cobblestone path continues to the fort, and the food traders give way to local artisans often come to show off their arts and crafts.

Behind the fort, the forest is decked in picnic tables shaded by tall trees. Because this is all open to the public, Fort Jacques is a popular destination among local young adults and teenagers as well as tourists: it is an open space, with seating available, out in the middle of nature. During the summer and winter breaks, it’s common to find young adults sitting at the tables, listening to music together and enjoying a good time.

Two people seen through a dark tunnel at Fort Jacques, Haiti
Fort Jacques, Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

Get the most out of your visit

Because there’s no designated tour guide team to show you around Fort Jacques, you’ll run into would-be guides who will hustle (sometimes aggressively) for the chance to show you around – for a foreigner price. For some visitors, this can be a challenging situation to navigate.

You’ll be more comfortable if you head to Fort Jacques with an experienced local from the start. This way, the guided tour isn’t as expensive, and there is a better chance of grasping the tour guide’s explanation of what’s going on.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018


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Four Reasons Why Haiti Is an Adventure

Three travellers wading in the Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Haiti
Travellers exploring the Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Haiti
Photo: Franck Fontain

Four Reasons Why Haiti Is an Adventure

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The jungles, jagged coastlines and wild white-sand beaches of Haiti were made for adventure travel, and the list of thrills is longer than the Chaîne de la Selle mountain range and bigger than Lake Azuéi. Haiti is a place not many tourists go, but where adventure-seekers thrive. It’s a place for the brave and curious.

Head for the hills in the Forêt de Pins, where a myriad of lush trails lead through the tropical conifers to Pic la Selle. Scuba dive off the island of La Gonave and discover a riot of underwater colours. Spend a day snorkeling in the crystal clear waters of Anse a Galets. Go caving behind the wild waterfalls of Bassin Zim. Feel the fresh air and adrenaline as you fly through the skies on the Dragon’s Breath zipline – the longest overwater zipline experience in the world.

You’ll need to do some real exploring

As far as Caribbean destinations go, Haiti is still a path less-travelled. As such – you won’t always find the sorts of creature comforts served up in the luxury hotels of other caribbean destinations, or an exhaustive directory of thoroughly reviewed local experiences. Unspoiled by the throngs of tourists you’d expect elsewhere, Haiti is a destination reserved for the intrepid, the inspired, the intrigued.

Haiti is raw. If the Caribbean was a menu, Haiti would be wild-caught and forest-foraged. For every manicured garden you stumble into, there are a hundred wild white-sand beaches waiting for you to kayak to, and for every paved road there’s a thousand rocky paths heading into the jungle-covered mountains, accessible only on foot. With a few exceptions, you won’t find the coolest cafes on instagram or the picturesque panormas on Pinterest – you’ll have to get out of your room, holster your smartphone, and find them yourself.

People relaxing by the sea at sunset, Haiti
People relaxing by the sea
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

You’ll need to be prepared

You won’t be completely in the dark though –  cell phone coverage is pretty good, you can find wifi in the cities and bigger towns, there’s another AirBnB added every month and an increasing number of hotels can be booked directly from a mobile phone. But take spare battery packs for everything – there’s no telling whether the solar electricity advertised at your Airbnb will last as long as claimed.

Google Maps coverage of Haiti is getting better, but there are still shortfalls. For directions to many destination, you’ll need to rely on local guides. All directions you find online should be taken with a grain of salt and seasoned with up-to-date advice. Google Maps can’t guide you through the intricate network of public transportation options, and doesn’t take into account the ravines made impassable by recent rains, or the truck that has been broken down and blocking that road for a week now.

Practice your French – or better yet, Creole!

Before you can navigate your way around boulders, you’ll need to navigate your way around the local languages! For some travellers, the most adventurous aspect of a trip to Haiti will be finding yourself in a country where the vast majority do not speak English. French is the official second language here, so if you have some high school French, dust off that dictionary and brush up before you go. Compared to France and Quebec, the locals of Haiti will be glad for your attempts to speak French, so don’t be shy. Don’t forget to smile and greet everyone with a joyful “Bonjour!”.

Better yet, embrace the chance to learn something new, and have a crack at Haitian Kreyol. You will win over anyone you encounter by making an honest effort at speaking their language. What you lack in vocab you can make up for in enthusiasm: stretch your hands and get ready for a real life game of charades.  

Moto on a beach in Haiti
Moto on the beach
Photo: Kolektif 2 Dimansyon

It’s not a postcard – it’s an experience

If you’re looking to leave behind the theme-park “paradise” offered at the bigger Caribbean islands in favour of something less iconic but more inspiring; if you want to ditch the dull itineraries and dive into a different perspective; if you’re sick of the curated seaside resorts and want to walk among real people shaped by hard work and hope, who’ve overcome more than their fair share of dark history and recent hardship, you’ve come to the right place. If you’re seeking a pinch of unpredictability, visit Haiti.

“Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.” -Anthony Bourdain

-Anthony Bourdain

Expect the unexpected, and don’t forget to bring your sense of adventure!


Written by Sarah Wallace.

Published August 2018


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Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

New forest growth in Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

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A vast expanse of tropical and subtropical coniferous forests straddling the border between Haiti and the Dominican Republic, the Forêt de Pins is located in the south-east corner of Haiti, on the Chaîne de la Selle mountain range.

Fresh air, deep tree cover and hiking opportunities make the Forêt de Pins a sought-after destination for active travellers looking for adventure and the chance to get close to Haiti’s wildlifebirdlife and nature. The forest also contains Haiti’s highest mountain, Pic La Selle, which reaches 8773 feet. Pic La Selle offers spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola and climbing the peak, including travel from Port-au-Prince, can easily be done in one weekend.

Forêt de Pins is currently in a process of recovery, after surviving a trend of deforestation that began in the 1930s and peaked in the 1960s. Although local communities have used forest products including timber and charcoal for fuel, the most significant damage was done by large corporations with ties to the government of that time, who sold forest products to American companies that made, of all things, aeronautical resin oil.

Laws are now in place to protect the forest and in 2007 the first reforestation projects began, with 1500 trees planted by locals. With more locals using propane tanks for fuel instead of traditional forest fuels, Forêt de Pins is proving to be an example of positive cooperation between a local government and national interests. This cooperation has been helped by the birth of a conservation network called Réseau pour la Sauvegarde de la Forêt des Pins, or RSFP. RSFP has partnered with Cesal, an international humanitarian aid organization, to fund train-the-trainer education programs in ten schools surrounding the forest. Through this initiative, teachers are able to spread knowledge about how to take care of the forest with low-impact livelihoods.

Sunset through the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Sunset, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Forêt de Pins isn’t “out of the woods” yet. Ecotourism is vital for ensuring local Haitians have access to sustainable livelihoods. This is where you come in. Guided hikes and overnight adventures in Forêt de Pins are a great way to encourage wildlife conservation and a great way to see Haiti.

Sunset next to a hotel in the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti
House in Foret des Pins, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Where to stay

Deep within the forest, there are several huts managed by the Haitian Ministry of Agriculture (MARNDR) which you can stay in through prior arrangement. It’s also possible to pitch your own tent, or find accommodation nearby in the welcoming township of Fonds-Verrettes.

Daisies growing in a field in the Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Flowers, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Verdy Verna

Getting there: Port-au-Prince to Gros Cheval

Most adventures to Forêt de Pins start in Port-au-Prince. If you’re travelling by car, the journey will take you around 4 hours including Friday afternoon traffic. Because the roads are poor in places, you’ll need a 4×4. You can rent one in Port-au-Prince for around US$350 (for up to eight people over two days including full insurance). If you’re not used to driving on rough roads, ask if the car company can provide an experienced driver as well.

Head out of Port-au-Prince via Croix des Bouquets and continue east on Route Nationale 8 toward the Malpasse/Jimani border crossing. Just after Fonds Parisien, turn right. From here the road is unpaved and rough in places but offers breathtaking views of the landscape, including over the Dominican Republic.

Follow the road into the foothills until you get to the small market town that bears the same name as the forest. In the marketplace, you’ll find a right turn which leads to Gros Cheval – you might need to ask one of the Moto taxi drivers for directions. Once you reach the marketplace in Gros Cheval, look for the green and white health centre building.

At the health centre in Gros Cheval travellers can find basic accommodation for around 500 gourdes per person, meals for around 400 per person, and guides. Guide fees are negotiated on arrival, but you can expect to pay about US$15-$25 per person in your group. Gross Cheval is the recommended departure point for adventurers wishing to climb Pic la Selle.

Daytime forest path in Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

A round trip takes between 8 and 12 hours. If you’ve arranged your guides the night before, you can leave Gros Cheval at 5am, driving for another hour into the forest before parking the car and starting the hike. The path will be uneven in places but no rock climbing is required. Taking a guide is still very much recommended because the path is often unclear or invisible.

The ascent takes around 3-6 hours depending on your fitness, and takes you over a ridge and four smaller peaks before you reach Pic la Selle proper. At over 8000 feet, those who are up for the adventure will be rewarded with spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola, looking over both Haiti and the Bahoruco mountain range in the Dominican Republic.

The return trip to Gros Cheval is a little quicker, and if you arranged it in advance you’ll find an evening meal waiting for you.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published August 2018


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