TRAVEL UPDATE: Visit Haiti from Home

literature

Krik-krak! – The Haitian Tradition of Storytelling

group of haitians sitting on chairs and porch in courtyard
Krik-krak storytelling in Cayes Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Krik-krak! (and tim-tim!)

Copy LinkEmailFacebookShare

“In my family, we are four, but when one of my brothers and sisters is not there, we can’t do anything…” Do you know the answer?

What you’ve just read is an example of a captivating Haitian cultural tradition known as kont, or “tales”. The scene in which you’ll hear these usually begins at nightfall, when children leave the warmth of their family homes to reunite outside and do what Haitians call tire kont – “telling tales”. These tales aren’t really stories, but rather short charades, each more amusing than the one before, based on the details and small objects of everyday life, and told in very colorful language. The practice of tire kont is often referred to as krik-krak! or tim-tim! because of the call-and-response formula of the charades.

haitian boys sitting in port-au-prince
Boys gathered for Krik-krak storytelling in Bois Moquette
Photo: Franck Fontain

How krik-krak works

The taleteller, the one who usually knows the answer to the charade, signals the start of a charade by calling “Krik!” To this, everyone replies: “Krak!”

When the taleteller says krik, they’re saying, “Prepare yourself, I have something for you to guess.” After people respond with “Krak!”, the taleteller continues: “Tim tim?” and the assembly replies, “Bwa chèch.”

“I may be small, but I have honored the greatest men.”

At this point, it’s up to the fastest person to answer. Suggestions shoot up from every corner: candle? Pen? Notebook? And if no one knows the answer, everyone admits defeat by saying, “Mwen bwè pwa.” Then, and only then, the taleteller reveals the answer to the riddle. Krik-krak is a communal practice that says a lot about Haitian people’s way of life. The tale, just like music and literature, contributes to keeping the Creole language alive and dynamic.

The practice of krik-krak / tim-tim is inherited from Haitians’ ancestors in Africa. In So Spoke the Uncle, Jean Price-Mars explains that similar practices appear in other countries where most of the population is descended from Africa, like Guadeloupe, and that the same krik-krak formula is still in use in some places in Africa.

Alongside riddles, there are also stories told to children and adults that follow the same formula, and which participate in the transmission of Haitian’s collective communal values and morality. Some tales, such as “Tezin” and “Ti Soufri”, are widespread across Haiti. Just like the fables and fairytales, these stories carry moral lessons and reflect social mores.

group of haitians sitting on chairs and porch in courtyard
Krik-krak storytelling in Cayes Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Haitian storytelling: growing or vanishing?

Orality occupies an extremely important place in Haiti, to the point where even Vodou, the most popular religion, is preserved overwhelmingly through oral traditions, including a strictly oral form of literature called odyans. The Haitian tale puts in perspective ways of life of the lower class and of people living in the countryside, where themes such as ownership, death, inheritance and family resurface often – familiar themes in European fairytales, which likewise often centre on the rural working-class. Although the social rite of telling stories around campfires is older than history itself, and the Haitian call-and-response guessing game is anchored in ancient African modes of storytelling, krik-krak! stands out as a unique treasure of Haitian culture, and one that both reflects and co-creates Haitian society.

However, since kont are handed down generation through generation orally, some rarely-told tales are at risk of disappearing…

haitian boys sitting together laughing
Boys gathered for krik-krak storytelling in Bois Moquette – Photo: Franck Fontain

There’s a Krik-krak! festival in March, and you’re invited!

Since 2009, an annual storytelling festival called Kont Anba Tonèl – the Intercultural Festival of Tales – has been hosted in Port-au-Prince as well as Jérémie and other provincial cities. Held every March, starting on World Story Day (March 20), the festival is largely an effort to showcase Haitian modes of storytelling, keeping the practice of krik-krak! alive. And it seems to be working – more and more comedians are turning to a career of professional taleteller, and some radio stations recover audio files of tales, archiving them to hold them in safekeeping for the future generations we hope will continue the practice.

If you visit Haiti during the last two weeks of the month of March, you’ll be able to attend the Kont Anba Tonèl festival and immerse yourself in an ancestral practice. Expect to hear a wealth of tales, attend talks by professional tale-collectors, and participate in workshops teaching many modes of storytelling, including krik-krak!. On that note…

Krik? Gets dressed to the nines to stay at home?”
Krak! The bed, of course…”


Written by Melissa Beralus and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published May 2020


Read story

Explore Jérémie

haitian man and woman posing behind a rocking chair
Nansky & Gina at their guesthouse in Jérémie
Photo: Franck Fontain

Explore Jérémie

Copy LinkEmailFacebookShare

At the end of a 180-mile journey west along Haiti’s southern peninsula, Jérémie is a busy coastal town with mountains cascading at its back. A city full of history and character, you’ll want to dedicate a couple of days to fully explore.

If you’ve travelled through the north of Haiti before (especially driving from Port-au-Prince to Cap-Haïtien through Mirebalais) the drive to Jérémie is reminiscent of watching Lake Péligre peek from between the curves in the road. The Grand’Anse river that gives this part of Haiti its name courses from its birthplace in the Pic Macaya National Park down through mountains to where it meets the sea just south of the town of Jérémie.

The Grand’Anse is the reason Jérémie was founded, and is important as a direct source of irrigation for fields and livestock. The communities that live and work all along the river are diverse, but through the river all are connected into a long, narrow, close-knit neighborhood.

Way out west, Jérémie boasts a self-possessed rural charm, a sort of independence from the rest of the island, and a kind of defiance in the face of time. In Jérémie, centuries-old traditions are still alive today, side-by-side with the modernity of a 21st century Haiti.

interior of church during service
Inside the Saint Louis King of France cathedral, Jérémie
Photo: Franck Fontain

Top attractions in Jérémie

Anse d’Azur – A spectacular sandy bay with a sunken German U-boat and a gorgeous cave system, Anse d’Azur is as picturesque as the very best of Caribbean beaches (minus the crowds).

Saint Louis King of France cathedral – The same romanticism in Jérémie’s literature infuses its architecture. If reading the works of Jérémie’s writers has inspired you, or if you’re into architecture or design, you’ll want to see the city’s Saint Louis King of France Cathedral (French: Cathédrale Saint-Louis-Roi-de-France de Jérémie). Built on the site of an ancient temple that burned down in 1874, the Cathedral is an imposing deep-red with white detail, pulling together elements of Haitian architecture familiar to travellers who have seen Port-au-Prince’s Gingerbread HousesIron Market, or the cathedral of Hinche.

Patron saint festival of Saint Louis – The Cathedral really shines during the month of August, when Jérémie gears up to celebrate the patron saint festival of Saint Louis King of France on the 25th. The city and surrounding parish come alive in prayer, festivities, and good times all around.

Kay Gina & Nansky – Being in Jérémie during the summertime is a great opportunity to visit Kay Gina & Nansky! Art-lovers Gina and Nansky have successfully curated a space that feels like both an altar and an exhibition, featuring artworks created by Haitian artists from Jérémie, Jacmel, Port-au-Prince and other cities right across Haiti. They also offer the opportunity to stay with them at their guest house, for $30 a night; the nice clean rooms are 10 minutes away from an amazing, immersive local experience in town, and breakfast can be tacked onto your stay for a small additional fee. Kay Gina & Nansky is a great place to get a quick bite of traditional carnival foods such as beignets—sweet banana fritters. A must-visit if you’re in town during any patron saint festival or kanival.

older haitian man in white shirt and black pants
Old man in Jérémie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

City of Poets

Jérémie has produced some of Haiti’s most prominent figures of literature, earning it the nickname of “the City of Poets”. Poets Émile Roumer and Jean-Fernand Brierre, as well as Alexandre Dumas’ father, all hailed from the City of Poets, and carried Haitian literature far and wide with them wherever they or their works set foot. Jérémie became a literary powerhouse that would later come to surpass the capital and inspire writers across the young Haitian nation. You’ll see plenty of monuments to poets and poetry while you’re here.

haitian house with pool and balcony
Makay Villa in Jérémie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Where to sleep

This far southwest, you won’t any all-inclusive resorts, but Jérémie is full of AirBnB options. By far, the best of these is Place Charmant; just a few minutes of driving away from downtown Jérémie, it sits atop a hill with an outstanding view overlooking the bay. Here, you can enjoy dipping in the large pool while using the city’s most reliable WiFi. Place Charmant’s rooms start at $80 per night, breakfast and dinner included.

If you’re travelling in a group, Makay Villa is ideal. With a pool overlooking a small bay, and access to a small semi-private beach, it’s a great place to call home during your stay in Jérémie.

haitian konparet cakes being baked in oven
Konparèt bakery in Jérémie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Must-try Flavors

You can’t trek the six-hour drive to Jérémie and not try its local specialty: konparèt. A rich, dense, almost pound-cake-like sweet biscuit, konparèt brings together the classic Caribbean flavors of coconut and ripe bananas, as well as warming accents from West Indies spices like cinnamon and vanilla. The delicacy is ubiquitous in the town of Jérémie, but when it makes the long journey back to Port-au-Prince with visitors, it is highly coveted – no bakery anywhere else on Hispaniola can replicate the real thing from Jérémie.

Meet the Locals

Tag along with us and Wilmar Belizaire from Jérémie as we take you to her favorite places to see, sleep, and savor in the city.

Need to Know

Jérémie is a town on the western edge of Haiti’s southern peninsula, famous as a birthplace of poets and for its striking turn-of-the-century cathedral.

Anse d’Azur – this spectacular sandy bay nearby is as picturesque as the very best of Caribbean beaches (minus the crowds).

August is the best time to visit, while Jérémie gears up for the patron saint festival of Saint Louis King of France.

Kay Gina & Nansky is a great place to browse art and get a quick bite of traditional carnival foods.

Makay Villa is the best place to sleep while you’re in town.

Konparèt – the essence of the Caribbean, distilled into a cake-like cookie. Win friends and favours by bringing this coveted delicacy back to Port-au-Prince.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published February 2020


Read story