TRAVEL UPDATE: Visit Haiti from Home

camping

Escape to Kokoye Beach! Secluded. Stunning. Serene.

Umbrellas and palm trees on Kokoye Beach, Haiti
Kokoye Beach, Petit Goave
Photo: Tyler Welsh

Escape to Kokoye Beach! Secluded. Stunning. Serene.

Copy LinkEmailFacebookShare

Looking for a weekend destination not far from Port-au-Prince? You’ll find the low-key glamping experience at Kokoye Beach that is an altogether different sort of luxury. Set into the unrivaled beauty of Haiti’s south coast, the pristine cove of Kokoye is just an hour’s boat ride from Petit-Goave.

Leave your troubles and your backpack in the tent provided, enjoy seafood served up by a local host, and spend your days swimming, snorkeling and drinking rum punch in a cove worthy of a scene from Pirates of the Caribbean.

“Glamping” (glamorous camping) is a popular alternative to both low-convenience regular camping and high-priced but underwhelming hotels, but what really sets glamping apart from either is the access it affords to wilderness, and is the uniqueness of the experience.

Kokoye Beach is one of the few beach excursions in Haiti that is set up for tourists, with all-inclusive boat trips departing daily. It’s a way to experience the white sand and lagoon-blue wonders of Haiti in comfort and on a budget. For more secluded beaches like Kokoye, check out our guide to Nine Lesser-known Beaches to Visit in Haiti.

Raw nature

Rocky outcrops stretch out on either side of the beach, bookending a pristine inlet. In the middle, an expanse of sparkling water stays tranquil and wave-free 90% of the time. It’s ideal for paddle boarding, snorkeling, kayaking and swimming. The water and white sand are pristine – the beach is maintained by local associations to keep tourists coming back for more.

Palm trees line white sand beaches that stretch into aqua water that is so unbelievably blue you’ll be tagging your Insta stories with #nofilter. The water is waist-deep until 200 meters out, perfect for bobbing the day away with an icy-cold rum punch in hand.

Come sunset, you can wind down lounging around bonfires, listening to local troubadours playing konpa classics on worn drums, and celebrate into the night.

With no electricity nearby, stargazers will be delighted by some of the Caribbean’s starriest skies. On a related note – pack head-torches or flashlights and extra battery packs for any phones and cameras you plan on using. The west of the beach offers access to modern toilets and showers where you can rinse off the seawater at the end of the day.

This is Haiti as it was made to be experienced. A hotel room is a hotel room but when you stay in a tent on the sand, and nap on a hammock strung between two coconut palms, it’s a unique way to feel immersed in the natural beauty this part of the world has to offer. Watching the sunrise over the water with no walls between you, and the sea at your fingertips, can be a life-changing experience.

Beach-side feasts at Kokoye Beach

When you get hungry, you’ll be glad you’re not quite roughing it: A team of experienced, professional staff will ensure you’re well-fed with fresh, flavorful meals that celebrate Haiti’s rich culinary heritage. Picture fresh seafood grilled over sizzling embers, the aroma of hot Haitian coffee wafting through the morning breeze, and the gentle sound of waves as your backdrop.

If sea-to-table and farm-to-fork dining define luxury, then Kokoye Beach takes it a step further. Breakfast brings the irresistible combination of Haitian coffee, cane sugar, and cassava bread served with locally-made peanut butter and fresh seasonal fruit. Feeling adventurous? Dive into the uniquely Haitian tradition of spaghetti for breakfast, a hearty and flavorful dish that’s both surprising and satisfying.

Lunch and dinner are all about showcasing the freshest seafood: grilled lambi (conch), fish, or lobster, straight from the ocean to your plate. These dishes are infused with the bold flavors of Haitian cuisine, seasoned with a mouthwatering blend of garlic, lime, hot peppers, and spices. For vegetarians, there are options featuring local produce, such as roasted plantains, avocado salads, or hearty bean stews.

Sustainability is key at Kokoye Beach. Most ingredients are locally caught or grown, supporting nearby communities and reducing the environmental impact of your meal. Whether it’s a seaside feast under the stars or a sunrise breakfast with a view, dining at Kokoye Beach is as much an experience as the adventure itself.

Curious about the breathtaking underwater world or the serene beauty of Kokoye Beach? Watch this video for a closer look at what awaits!

Feeling more adventurous?

You can explore sea caves on the north end of the beach, a 15 to 20-minute swim away, where the crystal-clear waters reveal hidden marine wonders. Snorkelers will love the vibrant underwater world around the caves, teeming with colorful fish and coral formations.

Looking for something inland? Hike around the southeast end of the beach to discover the ruins of a swimming pool and a crumbling mansion from a bygone era—perfect for history buffs and photographers alike.

If birdwatching is your thing, keep an eye out for the diverse avian life that thrives along the coast, from graceful egrets to tropical songbirds.

For a longer adventure, head west down the coast to explore the historic ruins of Fort Royal near Petit-Goâve. This hidden treasure offers a glimpse into Haiti’s colonial past, with its weathered stone walls and stunning views of the coastline.

Getting there

Kokoye Beach is located on a remote peninsula south of Petit-Goave, and it is only accessible by boat, or extreme hiking for 2-3 hours. There is no car access, which makes it feel more like an island escape. Visitors can call ahead to reserve tents, sleeping bags, and other comforts with a local host. People like Madam Fanfan (509) 4028 – 31 66 will also be able to help arrange your boat travel.

It’s also possible to arrange for an impromptu water taxi from the pier in Petit Goave. The boat ride time will vary depending on the motor and number of people aboard and visitors can expect to pay more for covered boats. While on the boat ride you’ll see local fisherman in their element, and freediving is a regular sight, as are sailboats sluicing by at slower speeds. The water changes from indigo blue to turquoise to aqua as you skim along the shore toward Kokoye.

Just over halfway there, Bananier Beach – a popular destination in its own right – is usually the first stop. Kokoye Beach is 20 minutes further down the coast.

Tips for making the most of your trip

To ensure a smooth and enjoyable excursion to Kokoye Beach, come prepared with plenty of Haitian gourdes in small denominations. While prices in Haiti have risen over the past couple of years, carrying smaller bills (25, 50, 100, and 250 gourdes) is still essential for tipping, purchasing snacks, or paying for any additional services. On this remote peninsula, making change can be challenging, so having exact amounts helps support the local economy and reduces stress for your hosts.

While US dollars are generally accepted in lieu of gourdes, you may get a less favorable exchange rate, so exchanging money beforehand is recommended.

Planning your trip is all about striking the right balance between adventure and comfort. If you’re looking for a DIY experience, bring your own snacks, drinks, or gear to enhance your time. However, for those who prefer to fully embrace the convenience of Kokoye Beach’s facilities, rest assured the dedicated staff will make your visit memorable with excellent food and attentive service.

Whether you’re seeking adventure or relaxation, Kokoye Beach is the perfect destination to disconnect from the daily grind and reconnect with nature.


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published July 2018.
Updated December 2024.


Read story

Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

New forest growth in Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

Copy LinkEmailFacebookShare

A vast expanse of tropical and subtropical coniferous forests straddling the border between Haiti and the Dominican Republic, the Forêt de Pins is located in the south-east corner of Haiti, on the Chaîne de la Selle mountain range.

Fresh air, deep tree cover and hiking opportunities make the Forêt de Pins a sought-after destination for active travellers looking for adventure and the chance to get close to Haiti’s wildlifebirdlife and nature. The forest also contains Haiti’s highest mountain, Pic La Selle, which reaches 8773 feet. Pic La Selle offers spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola and climbing the peak, including travel from Port-au-Prince, can easily be done in one weekend.

Forêt de Pins is currently in a process of recovery, after surviving a trend of deforestation that began in the 1930s and peaked in the 1960s. Although local communities have used forest products including timber and charcoal for fuel, the most significant damage was done by large corporations with ties to the government of that time, who sold forest products to American companies that made, of all things, aeronautical resin oil.

Laws are now in place to protect the forest and in 2007 the first reforestation projects began, with 1500 trees planted by locals. With more locals using propane tanks for fuel instead of traditional forest fuels, Forêt de Pins is proving to be an example of positive cooperation between a local government and national interests. This cooperation has been helped by the birth of a conservation network called Réseau pour la Sauvegarde de la Forêt des Pins, or RSFP. RSFP has partnered with Cesal, an international humanitarian aid organization, to fund train-the-trainer education programs in ten schools surrounding the forest. Through this initiative, teachers are able to spread knowledge about how to take care of the forest with low-impact livelihoods.

Sunset through the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Sunset, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Forêt de Pins isn’t “out of the woods” yet. Ecotourism is vital for ensuring local Haitians have access to sustainable livelihoods. This is where you come in. Guided hikes and overnight adventures in Forêt de Pins are a great way to encourage wildlife conservation and a great way to see Haiti.

Sunset next to a hotel in the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti
House in Foret des Pins, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Where to stay

Deep within the forest, there are several huts managed by the Haitian Ministry of Agriculture (MARNDR) which you can stay in through prior arrangement. It’s also possible to pitch your own tent, or find accommodation nearby in the welcoming township of Fonds-Verrettes.

Daisies growing in a field in the Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Flowers, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Verdy Verna

Getting there: Port-au-Prince to Gros Cheval

Most adventures to Forêt de Pins start in Port-au-Prince. If you’re travelling by car, the journey will take you around 4 hours including Friday afternoon traffic. Because the roads are poor in places, you’ll need a 4×4. You can rent one in Port-au-Prince for around US$350 (for up to eight people over two days including full insurance). If you’re not used to driving on rough roads, ask if the car company can provide an experienced driver as well.

Head out of Port-au-Prince via Croix des Bouquets and continue east on Route Nationale 8 toward the Malpasse/Jimani border crossing. Just after Fonds Parisien, turn right. From here the road is unpaved and rough in places but offers breathtaking views of the landscape, including over the Dominican Republic.

Follow the road into the foothills until you get to the small market town that bears the same name as the forest. In the marketplace, you’ll find a right turn which leads to Gros Cheval – you might need to ask one of the Moto taxi drivers for directions. Once you reach the marketplace in Gros Cheval, look for the green and white health centre building.

At the health centre in Gros Cheval travellers can find basic accommodation for around 500 gourdes per person, meals for around 400 per person, and guides. Guide fees are negotiated on arrival, but you can expect to pay about US$15-$25 per person in your group. Gross Cheval is the recommended departure point for adventurers wishing to climb Pic la Selle.

Daytime forest path in Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

A round trip takes between 8 and 12 hours. If you’ve arranged your guides the night before, you can leave Gros Cheval at 5am, driving for another hour into the forest before parking the car and starting the hike. The path will be uneven in places but no rock climbing is required. Taking a guide is still very much recommended because the path is often unclear or invisible.

The ascent takes around 3-6 hours depending on your fitness, and takes you over a ridge and four smaller peaks before you reach Pic la Selle proper. At over 8000 feet, those who are up for the adventure will be rewarded with spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola, looking over both Haiti and the Bahoruco mountain range in the Dominican Republic.

The return trip to Gros Cheval is a little quicker, and if you arranged it in advance you’ll find an evening meal waiting for you.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published August 2018


Read story